In a rush? Call us 844-262-5082
Heat Transfer Products Boiler Reviews
Showing 21-25 of 229 reviews
"GOOD boiler IF installed properly"
The Munchkin boilers I have installed for the last 12 years have had very few repair calls. The most notorious part for failure is the water pressure switch (pro code). If it is burning propane it must be cleaned yearly, On natural gas at least every two years. If you are losing the blower or 925 control it is caused by exhaust gas reversion or gasses rising out of the blower intake after the blower shuts off. I will let you in on a little secret – most of the high efficient boilers use the same internal parts. So bashing Munchkin when the only difference between it and Lochinvar Knight floor model,and many other brands is the controller. 99% of problems are caused by improper installation. Yeah I know YOU have heard this before but IT IS TRUE. Proper venting of ALL high efficient modulating boilers and furnaces is very critical. One of the inherent problems with Munchkin boilers is the lack of fall to the drain line – it has a bad habit of plugging up. When it does then you get F09's and F10's. plugged drain lines also destroys the front and back refractories. If the flame rod comes out with a reddish tint the boiler is holding water in the combustion chamber, If it comes out white you have exhaust gas reversion. I don't care what the install manual shows the exhaust pipe MUST be at least 18 inches above the intake pipe or 6 feet away down wind of the intake. Also call the distributor for HTP products in your area and find out who they recommend for service in your area. ( they give out my name here # These are good boilers. If you need to have the boiler replaced under warranty pay for the upgrade to the NEW ELITE FT. It is the new fire tube design that has been out for over three years now. #Triangle Tube was the first I believe# That is all that I install now. I don't have a problem with the older giononi style heat exchanger, I just believe that the new design fire tube boiler is far better. The new design still should be serviced yearly but it doesn't require yearly cleaning. I installed one of these 1 1/2 years ago and it cut their gas bills 40%. Usually savings is 25 to 30%. I have munchkins installed that the customer doesn't service until there is a problem. It usually takes 4 or 5 years to build up enough crud to cause a problem when the boiler is installed properly. I installed a Munchkin T80 and on purpose never took the cover off other than to install it. I never checked the combustion or any of the settings. All that I did was hang it on the wall, hook up the gas and water piping,hook up the electrical and thermostat wires, filled the system, purged the air and threw the power switch. This boiler ran with not one miss fire in three years. I know this because the computer hook up that I have shows the history ) After three years I notice the flame rod was getting dirty. This boiler had a layer of crud three inches wide and 1/4 inch deep inside on the bottom of the heat exchanger. did a before and after combustion analysis and I gained 1% by cleaning. This was my own boiler heating my in floor heated barn to 50* all winter for three winters. 0 Problems.
Thought I would save some money and went dual fuel with the Munchkin Contender 120 as the backup. It was well acclaimed by the installer. My mistake for being trustful and not doing more homework. Don't make the same mistake. There is absolutely no comfort that this unit will fire when we do off peak. There are dire consequences during a Minnesota winter. Any details on a class action suit?
"Hate this thing!"
I'm reading other posts and forgive me if I haven't read all 16 pages, but it sounds like a few of you really know what you are doing, so I would love some advice. The boiler was installed in 2007. The first year we had no problems, but every year since it has broken. Every time, the blue plate has been corroded. This time, the control panel is not getting electricity. Every plumber that comes out tells us that the intake and outtake vents are not correct, but when I look at the manual, it looks like it was installed exactly like the diagram "sidewall venting with concentric vent kit." Obviously this is not working the way it should, and I would like to tell the plumber who originally installed it that it wasn't installed correctly, but it looks like it was. But I see other people posting here that it is much better to have the vents separate, and at least 18" apart. Can anyone give me advice as to how to proceed with this? This thing is driving me crazy.
Andrew – f10 fault is from the fire being snuffed after the burner is lit. So in other words the boiler lit fine and then after a short time just went out. This is usually caused by water build up inside the heat exchanger. Did anyone flush the drain lines. If the boiler doesn't drain properly you will get F10'S. I suggest that you go back and read what I and others have written on this site.
J. C. Pernicka–Bellvue, Colorado—Yes, I can tell you from 40 years of experience: Installation is a big deal, especially with the new high efficiency boilers. If you have a Dungs gas valve look at the swirl plate and make sure it is not disintegrating, especially since you have replaced blowers before. It is a plastic plate between the gas valve and the blower that swirls the air and gas. If you have a Honeywell gas valve, make sure that you didn't suck something into the blower. Something may be unbalancing the impeller or the bearings maybe going. Lastly, you need to have a combustion analysis on the boiler. You may mistakenly believe that the blower is making the noise when it is "flashing" in the heat exchanger caused by the boiler pump not moving water through the hx fast enough. If so, clean the pump and or replace the cartridge. Munchkin is a good boiler and trouble free if installed correctly and maintained. (You do maintain the boiler and clean the combustion chamber?)–read the posts–