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Heat Transfer Products Boiler Reviews
Showing 16-20 of 229 reviews
""We had Paris""
J Brown–Menominee, MI—You may have multiple problems. "…round up the usual suspects" Back to basics: routine maintenance? Combustion chamber and condensate trap cleaning not greater than 3-4 years between. Natural gas pressure to valve 7" w/c (3/4" supply pipe and at least 10' from the meter? Combustion analysis on gas valve (co and 02)set correctly for low and high fire rates? F09 fault code causes—Burner tube not secured tightly to burner plate with the four screws (with a new gasket); Condensate line not draining (clean the combustion chamber)?; Gap on the spark ignitor is 1/4" and probes are clean and insulator not cracked; Rectification probe is clean and in the flame; Electrical plugs are connected tight and green ground wires are grounded and the polarity on the 110v wires are correct. new BLOWER—Make sure that the replacement blower is for a 140m; There is a cork gasket on the new blower's intake (positioned correctly?)(Honeywell gas valves use the cork gasket) Make sure that the hole on the brass vent on the rear of the Honeywell gas valve is open to the atmosphere; There is a new clear rubber gasket between the blower output and the blower to burner passage that came with the blower, use it. Check to make sure no plastic blower impeller parts lodged in the passage. multiple starts, no COMBUSTION— If the spark probe is sparking (with the correct gap and good ground); It is a air/fuel (gas valve) problem, a moisture in combustion chamber problem, a blower problem ( with the 925 controller, press the s2 & s3 button for 1 sec- ser should show on the display-press the s1 or s2 button to decrease or increase the blower speed, the display should read the rpm of the blower, display=269low–380hi–press s1 & s2 to exit. If it works blower is okay loud combustion rumble & erratic rectifier CURRENT— most likely an air/fuel problem which is tied to an f09. The rectifier current, with a good ground (burner tube and boiler), clean probes should be 4.1 micro amps when running. It can start at 2.5 to 4 micro amps on start up and quickly go to 4.1 ua (this is what rock solid is)., Erratic rectification is an air/fuel or grounding issue. a multimeter must be capable of reading 1 to 10 micro amps. That said, My humble advice is to clean the probes, install a new burner tube gasket and tighten the four screws very tightly, and get a combustion analysis with a recently calibrated combustion analyzer. burner TUBE—Remove the gas valve, blower, and burner plate as one single unit. Check the refractories for damage. Remove the 4 screws holding the burner tube to the burner plate. Remove the burner plate refractory (fragile) very carefully from the burner plate. Clean the old burner tube gasket from the burner tube and burner plate. Reverse the process using a new gasket. Report back. 10 years, see a Munchkin is a good boiler!
"Installed by my plumber"
Remember folks just because they say they know what they are doing – very few plumbers know how to install a high efficient boiler. Same goes for most heating and air guys. Find someone that has been installing high efficiency boilers for at least 5 years. To do a proper tune up requires a combustion analyzer. Is there a small hole ( 3/8 inch ) drilled into your boilers vent pipe about 1 to 2 feet from the boiler? If not it has never been properly installed or serviced. (The hole must be covered when done testing) I use metal tape.
Mr Brown – From what you have written your boiler is more than likely running lean. It needs to be set up to run less than 20 ppm co at low speed (I like to see about 15 to 18 ppm) and 100 ppm co at max speed. The noises are usually caused by lean burn. Also you need to check the drain line to make sure that it is not blocked. The burner gasket is more than likely gone. (the old ones deteriorated) Put anti-size on all threads when you put it back together. When You cleaned the heat exchanger did you clean between the tubes? When you remove the flame sensor does it have a red tinge? If it does it is getting wet.
"Worse purchase ever"
This boiler has so many problems I consider my heating and air guy one of my best friends. Be prepared to spend a lot of money yearly fixing the problems that occur.
"Munchkin are under sizing the gas line and venting"
Most issues around the Munchkin are under sizing the gas line and venting. Make sure that the venting line has been glued properly (this will destroy swirl plates as not gluing properly will allow gases to go back into the unit). Sidewall or roof venting is fine as long as there is nothing blocking the venting (so gases do not get sucked back into the venting).