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Heat Transfer Products Boiler Reviews
Showing 11-15 of 229 reviews
"To Keep it or Not to Keep it. That is the Question"
Geoff Marshall–Little Deer Isle, ME—The Munchkin is a legacy model, but that doesn't mean it is not a good replacement. The efficiency is a little lower than the newer models, but that is insignificant when you know how efficiency is calculated. A high efficiency boiler is most efficient when the return water is the coldest, that rarely is the case in actual practice. The more cold (sic), the more condensate is produced, the more efficient it is. I would install it (but I'm cheap). It should just slip into the old piping, saving installation costs. I'm curious as to how you got a leak behind the back refractory and how it was discovered. On another note, I'm very suspicious of well water. A ph of 6.5 is still acidic. Mineralization in well water under the heat load can solidify on the interior of the hx rapidly. Studies show that a small encrustation of minerals can radically reduce the heat transfer thru the hx to the water. Walmart sells distilled water for under $1 a gallon, very affordable. I would fill a system with that. Stray electrical currents traveling thru the mineralized boiler water can cause damage, too. Look, the unit may have been manufactured 4 years ago, but it is a new unit. Read these post and double check your installation, old and new. At least HTP didn't send you just a heat exchanger. I know $1000 is a lot of money, but it is a $3800 boiler. You are replacing an 8 year old boiler, too. I know that I would have felt more appreciative if it had been a newer model. Considering it all, I would install it. Good luck. Remember, luck is knowledge plus opportunity.
Darshan Suri–North Syracuse, New York — I've been so busy. The older you get, the less time you have. I'm at the point where I'm running out time. It is helpful to know where the leak is originating. What most folks and more than handful of boiler installer ignore is water quality. Poor water chemistry can destroy a heat exchanger in short order. When filling a boiler, I will use distilled water or deionized water if there is a question of water quality. This is especially imperative when using anti- freeze in your system. Improper air-fuel mixture can adversely affect the acidity in the condensate, as can laundry room chemicals. A boiler or water heater should never be installed where chemicals are in the boiler air intake environment. Water leaking from the pressure relief valve is indicative of a failed PRV, a pressure higher than 30# in the system. Too large a pump or a pump wrongly positioned in the system, and a water logged expansion tank. Flashing in the HX can cause water discharge. Hope this is helpful.
K powell–Minnesota—I'm sorry to hear of your misfortunes. This is quite serious. You should contact the Minnesota consumer affairs department concerning what happened with pictures and a statement from your fire chief, building department and a local heating contractor. Also, let htp know that you are doing so. Often times, State Warranty Laws preempt manufacturer's warranties. Did you have a new home buyer insurance policy? I am inclined to doubt that it was an electrical problem considering what you described. I sense that it may have been a failure of the combustion chamber with hot gases escaping into the compartment. This might have been discovered with a yearly maintenance before the heating season. Also, use smoke detectors. Smoke detectors saves lives.
"Horrid product !!!horrid company!!!!!!"
We purchased our house less than 2 years ago.We were excited to know that the boiler had just been purchased 2 months prior to us buying the house.Two nights ago I fell asleep on the couch (my husband works 2nd shift) and I woke to smoke all over the house.(I Could smell an electric wire burning smell)It was one of the coldest nights in minutes 30 below..I ran around the house trying to find out what it could be. I followed the smell to my basement, when I opened the door smoke just billowed out, I called 911 and the fire chief arrived first. He said the whole wiring and everything on the boiler was melted. It had tripped the breaker so no fire thank God. But a ton of smoke everywhere.and this boiler was under 2 years old, when my husband called this company they said the warranty doesn't transfer ownership… really??? We bought the house and the warranty does not come with, this product or company should not be in business!!!! Do not do business with these people. I could have been killed because of this incident if I had not of woke up. Our lives were turned up side down because of this company's negligence and they wont face up to their responsibility!!!!!
""We had Paris""
J Brown–Menominee, MI—You may have multiple problems. "…round up the usual suspects" Back to basics: routine maintenance? Combustion chamber and condensate trap cleaning not greater than 3-4 years between. Natural gas pressure to valve 7" w/c (3/4" supply pipe and at least 10' from the meter? Combustion analysis on gas valve (co and 02)set correctly for low and high fire rates? F09 fault code causes—Burner tube not secured tightly to burner plate with the four screws (with a new gasket); Condensate line not draining (clean the combustion chamber)?; Gap on the spark ignitor is 1/4" and probes are clean and insulator not cracked; Rectification probe is clean and in the flame; Electrical plugs are connected tight and green ground wires are grounded and the polarity on the 110v wires are correct. new BLOWER—Make sure that the replacement blower is for a 140m; There is a cork gasket on the new blower's intake (positioned correctly?)(Honeywell gas valves use the cork gasket) Make sure that the hole on the brass vent on the rear of the Honeywell gas valve is open to the atmosphere; There is a new clear rubber gasket between the blower output and the blower to burner passage that came with the blower, use it. Check to make sure no plastic blower impeller parts lodged in the passage. multiple starts, no COMBUSTION— If the spark probe is sparking (with the correct gap and good ground); It is a air/fuel (gas valve) problem, a moisture in combustion chamber problem, a blower problem ( with the 925 controller, press the s2 & s3 button for 1 sec- ser should show on the display-press the s1 or s2 button to decrease or increase the blower speed, the display should read the rpm of the blower, display=269low–380hi–press s1 & s2 to exit. If it works blower is okay loud combustion rumble & erratic rectifier CURRENT— most likely an air/fuel problem which is tied to an f09. The rectifier current, with a good ground (burner tube and boiler), clean probes should be 4.1 micro amps when running. It can start at 2.5 to 4 micro amps on start up and quickly go to 4.1 ua (this is what rock solid is)., Erratic rectification is an air/fuel or grounding issue. a multimeter must be capable of reading 1 to 10 micro amps. That said, My humble advice is to clean the probes, install a new burner tube gasket and tighten the four screws very tightly, and get a combustion analysis with a recently calibrated combustion analyzer. burner TUBE—Remove the gas valve, blower, and burner plate as one single unit. Check the refractories for damage. Remove the 4 screws holding the burner tube to the burner plate. Remove the burner plate refractory (fragile) very carefully from the burner plate. Clean the old burner tube gasket from the burner tube and burner plate. Reverse the process using a new gasket. Report back. 10 years, see a Munchkin is a good boiler!