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Heat Transfer Products Boiler Reviews
Showing 6-10 of 229 reviews
I have a Voyager boiler with a hydronic coil. Besides replacing the igniter in a 18-month period and now about every 2 years, and replacing the boiler once, it's been rock solid. This is a household of 5 and it's heating a 3500 square foot home and domestic hot water for 14 years.
"FO9 error code"
Tutti– Wisconsin—You should not get any leaking. You need to determine the source of the leak. When you have a leak, fresh water comes into the boiler, carrying oxygen into the system. Oxygen decomposes any iron in your system piping. Boilers are not supposed to leak. As for the f09 error code, read the posts as it is very well covered by my "Homer" posts. You do need to clean your boiler at least every 3 years. That means doing more than just cleaning the probes (which should be part of the yearly inspection). The built-in condensation trap need to be cleaned so that the condensate that is produced during combustion can leave the boiler's combustion chamber. You need a boiler guy (hydronics) to check out the leak as there is so many places that leaks can occur. Put a glass under the overflow pipe (pressure relief valve, prv) and see if it is coming from there. If the leak is coming from the prv, check system pressure on the gauge. It should be about 12-15 psi cold and when hot less than 20 psi. Also, if the expansion tank is water logged, pressure in the system can exceed 30 psi and water will be forced out the prv. Any of these caused requires replacing the prv when repairs are made. Read the posts, folks!
Randy engel–wichita ks—I don't know what model boiler you have or what size.—-F03–Boiler Water Return Thermister. Check plug and wiring to the thermister. Unplug the control board plugs and plug back in securely. I suppose that a thermister reading a lower water temperature than the boiler is producing may cause the boiler water to be 230 degrees and flashing to occur in the hx? I have to think that one thru. If you still have the f03 error, replace the thermister.You may have to drain water out of the boiler to do this.—-F05–The supply water temperature at or over 230 degrees F. If the boiler jumps or shakes with a banging sound, you have a water flow thru the boiler problem.(insufficient flow with flashing in the hx) If this is the reason, then you are trashing the boiler when it is a problem not related to the boiler. The boiler is just doing it's job of shutting down and notifying you of a problem. Other Possibilities: You have a plugged heat exchanger (HX), unlikely. You have an isolation valve closed or partly closed, possible. You have pump that is not rotating because it is not energized, not installed with the flow, or not rotating because the rotor is binding because of dirt, most likely. If the boiler is above radiation there could be air in the line somewhere, unlikely. If the boiler pump is a Taco pump the cartridge is most likely plugged with magnetite. Replace the cartridge. If a Grundfos pump take apart and clean with CLR or Lime scale remover. A professional should do the work. Out of the Installation Manual: "F03–Interrupted or shorted return thermister–This code appears if the return thermister located on the Munchkin Outlet manifold has been interrupted or shorted. Remedy– Check the wiring connection and connectors on the thermister. If the connections are ok, hit the S4 Reset button. If the unit locks out again, replace the return thermister."
"F09 Code Again"
Kevin B.-Northern Michigan–Kevin F09 Error Code is the easiest code to fix. Read the posts as there is so much info on the F09 Error Code that I'm tired writing about it. Without a flame sense (it is called flame rectification), the boiler will turn off. You can understand that if there wasn't any flame in the combustion chamber, raw gas would fill the whole system with possible explosive results. The control board sends a minute AC current through the flame which changes it from AC to DC current and the control board looks for that DC current. The control board keeps the gas valve open and everything else operating if it finds it. If that DC current is missing or much smaller than 4 microamps, the control board doesn't see a flame and shuts everything down for safety reasons. The path that this AC current takes is from the control board, to the rectifier probe, thru the flame to the burner tube, thru the 4 bolts holding the burner tube, to the boiler front plate to the boiler front plate to ground, to the control board. This is called a circuit. Anything that interrupts the flow thru this circuit will cause an F09 Error Code. The usual culprit is the 4 bolts holding the burner tube to the boiler plate. (They get loose) Replace the burner tube gasket (7250p- 070), clean the gasket surfaces first, cinch down the 4 bolts good-n-tight. Read the posts to see how I clean the probes. Be careful of the probe gaskets and the refractories as they are very fragile.
Genene C Hill–Kaysville, Utah—It is difficult to analyze when I can't see it. I don't know what you mean when you say it doesn't start. What happens when you hold the reset button on the keypad down? There are a lot of things that could be your problem. So, we will "round up the usual suspects". The fact that the keypad is showing the temperature of the boiler, water is good as it probably means that the control board is okay. There are no fault codes which probably confirms it. Can you access the control board programing? Is the control board properly programed through the keypad (outdoor reset, etc.)? Many thermostats use batteries in the thermostat to operate the thermostat electronics. Is the batteries new and properly installed? The thermostat is just a switch. The thermostat tells the boiler to turn on. The wiring between the thermostat and the boiler must be intact and making good contact. The first thing that I would do is cut the power to the boiler. Then unplug and replug all the harnesses on the control board. Does that turn on the boiler? Then I would go to the boiler and disconnect the thermostat from the boiler at the boiler (the two gray wires labeled thermostat) and then connect the two gray wires (they are called the TT wires) together. Does the boiler start, blower start, ignition fire, etc.? If it does then the thermostat or the thermostat wiring is the problem. I would then look at the control board. If you have the software on your computer, I would reprogram the control board or take the control board to the wholesale company that sells HTP products and have them reprogram it. You need the serial number, make and model and revision info. If that fails, you will need a new control board. Hope this helps.