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Consumer Reviews of HTP boilers

Popularity:
#49  of 67 brands of boilers

23% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 361 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    70
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    15
  • Neutral
    94
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    9
  • Very Unsatisfied
    173

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Date created: 2012-01-19 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"P. Cruse"
I must have missed something - The Munchkin tech was out and told you that your boiler wasn't installed properly and it must be serious enough to shorten the life of your boiler and it is still a bad boiler?????? Doesn't COMMON sense say that the problem is NOT with the boiler but with the company that installed it. Those of you that post here need to read what those of us that try to help have written. Most of your problems would go away IF you would just do what has been suggested. I just went on another bad install on Monday - They also had constant expensive repairs. Major reversion. Still had the concentric vent termination and the cap was not installed properly. Third blower. Still need to reverse the water piping so that the water flows the right way through the boiler. (They didn't even have that right.)



Date created: 2012-01-17 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Shannon Revisited"
Shannon, When you cleaned the hx, did you replace the burner tube gasket? (Read my earlier posts on f09) There are four bolts that hold the burner tube to the boiler plate inside the hx. Always use a new burner tube gasket Part # 7250p-070 when you clean the hx. I always use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and tighten the four bolts up good-n-tite. Shannon, I'm not supposed to tell you this, so I have to swear you to secrecy. So don't tell anyone. The number for Heat Transfer Products is 1-800-323-9651. Now, remember don't tell anyone.


Date created: 2012-01-16 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Addendum for Shannon"
I don't know know what the size of the boiler that you have or the gas valve ( Honeywell of Dungs) on it. But if it is an 80m with a Honeywell gas valve, do this. On the rear of the Honeywell gas valve is a brass projection about the diameter of a pencil facing the rear of the boiler cabinet. On the 80m this brass vent almost touches the cabinet. If the hx shifts this vent can be blocked by the cabinet surface interfering with the functioning of the gas valve. If the brass vent is touching the cabinet back, drill a 3/8" hole in the cabinet plastic back so that the brass vent is not touching the cabinet and has free access to air. You need to put a pressure gauge on the input port of the gas valve and monitor the gauge while operating the boiler. The gauge should read 11" of water column with out the boiler running and should maintain that pressure when it is running. A decrease in pressure while the boiler is running would indicate a blockage in the gas supply. Your problem can be looked at this way: A gas supply problem--A temperature problem. As the temperature in the boiler cabinet increases, metals expand. Is your wiring harnesses making good contact? I am betting on the gas supply. Hope this helps.


Date created: 2012-01-16 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Once Again The Munchkin Gets The Blame!"
Shannon, Levering, Michigan---Well, it is a good thing that you mentioned propane. First, Read the posts about f09 codes in this forum. Shannon, Shannon, Shannon-This is your problem, I think. Does your boiler work fine in the summer and fail in the winter? Just when you need heat, Whammo, f09 or f10 messes up your day or nite. Your Propane Regulator at the tank or house has moisture in it and it is freezing up, limiting the amount of gas to the boiler. Warm the regulators and see if your problems disappear. I hope that you report back with a (very satisfied) check mark. read the posts, Folks.


Date created: 2012-01-04 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"NC Fault Code"
Stephan Wilkinson--Cornwall-on-Hudson,NY nc Fault Code means this: Improper neutral (white wire) connection to the boiler. Make sure that the ground (green wire) hasn't any stray current (ground fault) on it. You should check the wiring on the boiler junction box and wall cord that plugs into the wall outlet for proper polarity. You can buy a cheap wall outlet tester at Home Depot and plug it in and it will tell you if the outlet box is wired correctly (polarity wise). On the cord, one side is ribbed and one side is smooth. The ribbed side is the white wire and the smooth side of the cord is the black wire. The green wire is ground. The ribbed side should be connected to the white wires in the boilers junction box and the smooth side should be connected to the black wires in the boiler junction box.


Date created: 2011-12-30 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Happy New Year--A rockin'-n-rollin'"
Jesse, barton, VT---Contenders are good boilers, an improvement on the Munchkin. So your boiler's a rockin'-n-rollin'. First, I believe that you have flashing in the hx (heat exchanger). Flashing occurs when the water pumped through the hx is too slow. (Gallons per minute). The water boils in the hx and vapors form and then collapse. It shakes the boiler. Not good! A 140m (140,000 btu) Munchkin should have 14 gpm pumping through the hx. 1gal for every 10,000 btu. To have such a high flow rate it is necessary to have a boiler loop and a heating loop (two pumps minimum) with the correct piping sized for flow. The pumps must be sized for system pressure loss (head) and flow, too. Pumps that are too small aren't going to get the job done. I have also seen this happen, but not as bad, when the gas valve is not correctly adjusted and also a blower problem. Second, Jesse, hire some one who knows what they're doing An F05 will shake the boiler (read earlier posts)and check the voltage at the pump (110V) when the boiler is running and acting up. Is the boiler pump turning? You need someone who's knowledgeable in Hydronics. It is a specialized field with a lot of training. So--do your guys qualify? Hope thing work out for you. Happy New Year, one and all!


Date created: 2011-11-25 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"GOOD boiler if installed properly"
99% of your problems are totally related to the way your boiler was installed. I install high efficient boilers for a living and have many Munchkin boilers installed that need no more than yearly maintenance. If they are not properly installed you will have a nightmare of problems. I installed a T80 in my 1512 square foot barn three years ago and did NOT dial it in or do anything other than hook up the water, gas, vent piping and electrical. This boiler has run flawlessly for three winters. I just recently checked the flame sense and found that it was getting close to lock out (F09). I did a before and after combustion analysis. There was a light coating of (coffee grounds) covering most of the heat exchanger. I cleaned this out with a vacuum and then brass wire brushed the heat exchanger then used a feeler gauge between the tubes. I then water washed the heat exchanger and flushed the drains. I found the flame rod was too far from the burner and the gap of the igniters was at 3/16 instead of 1/4 inch. The difference of the before and after was only 1% loss of efficiency with the water inlet and outlet temperatures the same on both tests. The only difference was the exhaust temperature was 5* higher in the dirty test due to the dirty heat exchanger. These boilers if installed properly will not be a problem. So ALL of you that are complaining need to have someone competent reinstall your boiler.


Date created: 2011-10-28 Name: Kim
Location: Greenfield Center NY
Years owned: 6

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"High efficiency heather with 925 controller"
Run, don't walk, run from this boiler. It is nothing but a problem. Every year when I turn on the heat in the fall - I require at least 3 service calls. Error code F09, F00, should just say "your F'd"! Many part replacements. Not I am hearing a plate needs to be replaced - in addition to the second replacement today alone of the high limit switch. One year warranty on thousands of dollars to install and yearly at least $700 in repair/service costs. Does anyone know of a class action lawsuit against this manufacturer? Given the reviews - there should be one!


Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
""A Cry In The Wilderness, Sgt. Preston to the Rescue" "Onward Huskies""
C. MacKenzie- NW20 110 15 W5--Catherine, Catherine, Catherine, what am I going to do with you? You cry for help, but provide no information.--I'm trying to hone in on your problem, but my clairvoyance only reaches to Calgary.---Being in the remote outback, you have few choices in agents to fix your boiler, I suspect. There are Fault Codes to help diagnose your problem. The Munchkin (unless it is a HA model) has two probes (electrodes). A spark ignitor probe and a rectifying probe. They both need to be cleaned. (see earlier posts) Hot surface ignitors DO NOT need to be cleaned---there are so many things that can cause a boiler not to fire, so a sequence of operations may be helpful. The foregoing is not exact.----The thermostat closes (calls for heat), signaling the control board to turn on the boiler. The control board checks the sensors, gas valve, and blower (electronics). If everything is ok it turns on the blower for a pre-purge of the combustion chamber and then initiates the spark or hot surface ignitor, then opens the gas valve and check for ignition through flame rectification. (4.1 Micro-amps) The boiler produces hot water for heat. When the thermostat is satisfied, it opens, and the boiler turns off. Anything disrupting this process will cause the boiler not to fire. For example: No gas present or wrong pressure--Wrong polarity on the 115 volt wiring--Dirty AC voltage sine wave (Harmonics on the AC voltage line)--No ground or intermittent ground (green wire)-- Current on the ground wire (green wire)--Thermostat or thermostat wiring open--Failed sensor or intermittent sensor--Wiring harness connections not making good contact--The blower negative pressure tube to the sensor leaking--The spark electrode gap is incorrect --Gas valve set too lean--Flue sensor over heated--Loose connection between the blower and gas valve--Plugged intake or exhaust vent or vent too long--Condensate not draining (water vapor build up in the combustion chamber--The air pressure sensor stuck closed--Loose burner tube--The 925 Control Board overheating (IC-6 ?)--Power surges or brownouts can damage the control board, has that happened?--Insufficient water pressure in the system----Catherine you get the picture. There is a diagnostic and solution for all of these. Catherine you need a Major Maintenance on your boiler if it is 4 yrs old and read the earlier posts for more information. Hope this helps.


Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Blowers"
K Jaeckel - Your blower failed on the new boiler for the same reason it failed on the old one. OH and the heat exchanger failed for the same reason probably. Exhaust reversion WILL destroy the boiler.

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