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Consumer Reviews of HTP boilers

Popularity:
#46  of 68 brands of boilers

22% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 379 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    71
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    15
  • Neutral
    94
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    10
  • Very Unsatisfied
    189

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Date created: 2012-01-25 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa"
Homer, you blew it. Please ignore my suggestion to pump into the expansion tank. What I meant to say and didn't was that you never-ever pump into an expansion tank. Funny things happen in the system when you do that, like pressure differences in the system that can drop to near 0 psi. So, you always pump away from an expansion tank. The tank connection should always be on the inlet side of the pump.--SHANE--My reasoning was this--Although the static pressure (when the boiler is not running) in the system is 12psi at all points in the system. If the pump is on the supply side nipple, pumping away from the boiler and the pressure switch and, also, the pump is pumping into the expansion tank, the dynamic pressure (the pressure created by the pump when the system is running)can drop system pressure in parts of the heating loop to less than 10 psi causing a pr0 fault code. If this pressure drop is marginal, near 10 psi at the pressure switch, you could have intermittent pr0 fault codes. This is especially probable if the pump is mismatched (too powerful). These are my random thoughts.



Date created: 2012-01-24 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Shane Kairalla Revisited"
The easy way to tell if it is the pressure switch is to get some jumper cables at Radio Shack and jump the switch terminals while the wiring harness is connect to the switch. Do this at the switch when you have a pr0 fault code. If the boiler turns on it is either one of two things: low water in the system or faulty pressure switch. If the boiler doesn't turn on when you do this it is either one of two things: the harness is lacking continuity between the control board and switch or a faulty 925 control board. Replace with a 926 control board if replacement is necessary. Always do the cheapest and easiest thing first. If you have low water pressure in the system drain your expansion tank down and inflate the tank to 15 psi with air through the Schrader valve on the bottom of the tank under the red or blue cap. On a two story house the system pressure should be between 12-15 psi.---Lord help me, but I got to mention it. The boiler pump should be pumping into the 1 1/4" return brass nipple on the boiler and not pumping away from the supply brass nipple on the boiler. The supply is the 1 1/4" brass nipple that is closest to you when you are standing in front of the boiler. Lastly, always place the expansion tank connection to the system after the pump so that you pump into the expansion tank and not away from the expansion tank. Gasp, I done. pump


Date created: 2012-01-19 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"P. Cruse"
I must have missed something - The Munchkin tech was out and told you that your boiler wasn't installed properly and it must be serious enough to shorten the life of your boiler and it is still a bad boiler?????? Doesn't COMMON sense say that the problem is NOT with the boiler but with the company that installed it. Those of you that post here need to read what those of us that try to help have written. Most of your problems would go away IF you would just do what has been suggested. I just went on another bad install on Monday - They also had constant expensive repairs. Major reversion. Still had the concentric vent termination and the cap was not installed properly. Third blower. Still need to reverse the water piping so that the water flows the right way through the boiler. (They didn't even have that right.)


Date created: 2012-01-17 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Shannon Revisited"
Shannon, When you cleaned the hx, did you replace the burner tube gasket? (Read my earlier posts on f09) There are four bolts that hold the burner tube to the boiler plate inside the hx. Always use a new burner tube gasket Part # 7250p-070 when you clean the hx. I always use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and tighten the four bolts up good-n-tite. Shannon, I'm not supposed to tell you this, so I have to swear you to secrecy. So don't tell anyone. The number for Heat Transfer Products is 1-800-323-9651. Now, remember don't tell anyone.


Date created: 2012-01-16 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Addendum for Shannon"
I don't know know what the size of the boiler that you have or the gas valve ( Honeywell of Dungs) on it. But if it is an 80m with a Honeywell gas valve, do this. On the rear of the Honeywell gas valve is a brass projection about the diameter of a pencil facing the rear of the boiler cabinet. On the 80m this brass vent almost touches the cabinet. If the hx shifts this vent can be blocked by the cabinet surface interfering with the functioning of the gas valve. If the brass vent is touching the cabinet back, drill a 3/8" hole in the cabinet plastic back so that the brass vent is not touching the cabinet and has free access to air. You need to put a pressure gauge on the input port of the gas valve and monitor the gauge while operating the boiler. The gauge should read 11" of water column with out the boiler running and should maintain that pressure when it is running. A decrease in pressure while the boiler is running would indicate a blockage in the gas supply. Your problem can be looked at this way: A gas supply problem--A temperature problem. As the temperature in the boiler cabinet increases, metals expand. Is your wiring harnesses making good contact? I am betting on the gas supply. Hope this helps.


Date created: 2012-01-16 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Once Again The Munchkin Gets The Blame!"
Shannon, Levering, Michigan---Well, it is a good thing that you mentioned propane. First, Read the posts about f09 codes in this forum. Shannon, Shannon, Shannon-This is your problem, I think. Does your boiler work fine in the summer and fail in the winter? Just when you need heat, Whammo, f09 or f10 messes up your day or nite. Your Propane Regulator at the tank or house has moisture in it and it is freezing up, limiting the amount of gas to the boiler. Warm the regulators and see if your problems disappear. I hope that you report back with a (very satisfied) check mark. read the posts, Folks.


Date created: 2012-01-04 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"NC Fault Code"
Stephan Wilkinson--Cornwall-on-Hudson,NY nc Fault Code means this: Improper neutral (white wire) connection to the boiler. Make sure that the ground (green wire) hasn't any stray current (ground fault) on it. You should check the wiring on the boiler junction box and wall cord that plugs into the wall outlet for proper polarity. You can buy a cheap wall outlet tester at Home Depot and plug it in and it will tell you if the outlet box is wired correctly (polarity wise). On the cord, one side is ribbed and one side is smooth. The ribbed side is the white wire and the smooth side of the cord is the black wire. The green wire is ground. The ribbed side should be connected to the white wires in the boilers junction box and the smooth side should be connected to the black wires in the boiler junction box.


Date created: 2011-12-30 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Happy New Year--A rockin'-n-rollin'"
Jesse, barton, VT---Contenders are good boilers, an improvement on the Munchkin. So your boiler's a rockin'-n-rollin'. First, I believe that you have flashing in the hx (heat exchanger). Flashing occurs when the water pumped through the hx is too slow. (Gallons per minute). The water boils in the hx and vapors form and then collapse. It shakes the boiler. Not good! A 140m (140,000 btu) Munchkin should have 14 gpm pumping through the hx. 1gal for every 10,000 btu. To have such a high flow rate it is necessary to have a boiler loop and a heating loop (two pumps minimum) with the correct piping sized for flow. The pumps must be sized for system pressure loss (head) and flow, too. Pumps that are too small aren't going to get the job done. I have also seen this happen, but not as bad, when the gas valve is not correctly adjusted and also a blower problem. Second, Jesse, hire some one who knows what they're doing An F05 will shake the boiler (read earlier posts)and check the voltage at the pump (110V) when the boiler is running and acting up. Is the boiler pump turning? You need someone who's knowledgeable in Hydronics. It is a specialized field with a lot of training. So--do your guys qualify? Hope thing work out for you. Happy New Year, one and all!


Date created: 2011-11-25 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"GOOD boiler if installed properly"
99% of your problems are totally related to the way your boiler was installed. I install high efficient boilers for a living and have many Munchkin boilers installed that need no more than yearly maintenance. If they are not properly installed you will have a nightmare of problems. I installed a T80 in my 1512 square foot barn three years ago and did NOT dial it in or do anything other than hook up the water, gas, vent piping and electrical. This boiler has run flawlessly for three winters. I just recently checked the flame sense and found that it was getting close to lock out (F09). I did a before and after combustion analysis. There was a light coating of (coffee grounds) covering most of the heat exchanger. I cleaned this out with a vacuum and then brass wire brushed the heat exchanger then used a feeler gauge between the tubes. I then water washed the heat exchanger and flushed the drains. I found the flame rod was too far from the burner and the gap of the igniters was at 3/16 instead of 1/4 inch. The difference of the before and after was only 1% loss of efficiency with the water inlet and outlet temperatures the same on both tests. The only difference was the exhaust temperature was 5* higher in the dirty test due to the dirty heat exchanger. These boilers if installed properly will not be a problem. So ALL of you that are complaining need to have someone competent reinstall your boiler.


Date created: 2011-10-28 Name: Kim
Location: Greenfield Center NY
Years owned: 6

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"High efficiency heather with 925 controller"
Run, don't walk, run from this boiler. It is nothing but a problem. Every year when I turn on the heat in the fall - I require at least 3 service calls. Error code F09, F00, should just say "your F'd"! Many part replacements. Not I am hearing a plate needs to be replaced - in addition to the second replacement today alone of the high limit switch. One year warranty on thousands of dollars to install and yearly at least $700 in repair/service costs. Does anyone know of a class action lawsuit against this manufacturer? Given the reviews - there should be one!

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