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Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

Popularity:
#34  of 53 brands of boilers

22% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 327 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    60
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    13
  • Neutral
    93
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    9
  • Very Unsatisfied
    152

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Date created: 2012-03-11 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Potato-Potahto---Tomato-Tomahto"
Danny Collins- Groveland,MA---I don't know what growling and banging sound like. My idea may be different than yours (it's subjective). What did your boiler guy do in servicing? Did these noises occur after servicing and not before? It's keeping you up at nite? Absent any other symptoms, fault codes, loud noises in my observation, have come from moving parts.---1. Blower motor is failing (separation). This in my experience had been very loud and no fault codes,too. Is the sound coming from the exhaust outside the house?---2. Flashing in the hx because the pump is not pushing enough water through the hx this creates banging sound, One other thought, Is the burner tube securely attached by the four screws and not vibrating? Of course, there is the possibility, that somehow, a bear got into your boiler, I know there's a remote chance of that happening. Hope this helps.



Date created: 2012-03-08 Name: Danny Collins
Location: groveland,ma
Years owned: 6

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Banging issue"
Since having the unit serviced, my boiler makes a loud growling noise every time it fire's up. It has gotten to the point where it prevents me from sleeping. The service man is unable to resolve, and have failed to get factory to respond. I would not recommend this unit unless you buy the service agreement beyond 5 years so you can get it replaced without cost


Date created: 2012-03-06 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"M. Lottermoser--A Final Note!"
M. Lottermoser--Calgary, Alberta--Good advice from beltline HEATING--If you decide to take the advice (highly recommended), keep in mind that the combined (intake + exhaust) of straight pipe is 85'. Each fitting has a straight pipe equivalent that must be added to the straight pipe in your system and end up being not more than 85' total. If you are close to that figure, I would use a dwv (Drain Waste Vent) pvc 90 degree fitting rather than a sharp pvc 90 degree fitting as the resistance to flow is less in the dwv fitting. a pvc dwv 90 is not a true 90 degrees, it opens at 1/4" per foot and is a long sweep fitting (which means less resistance to flow). -----ALSO-----Your glyco in your system is nearing it life cycle at 7 years. You should have it tested and or think about replacement.---CLR Is ok, but I use Simple Green scale and lime remover as it's formula is like Rydlyme, which was recommended by htp.


Date created: 2012-03-05 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.
Years owned: 10

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"M. Lottermoser"
Hi - this proves just how good these boilers can be if they are even close to being installed properly. When you say concentric vented are you talking the inverted funnel type? If so can you remove the outer funnel and cut off the straight end? ( this will expose about 1 1/2 inches of the inner pipe) If you can do this then install an elbow then go up at least 18 inches and put a 45* elboe on the top with a stainless steel screen in it. You probably lost the 925 controller because of the exhaust gas reversion. The longer post purge is VERY important because it pushes the moist exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber after the burner shuts off. If these gasses rise up and out of the burner air intake it will eventually damage the boiler. I reprogram all of the older boilers to the newest software version with the longer post purge. And NO you can't change that setting.


Date created: 2012-02-26 Name: Joe Martinelli
Location: Minnesota

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Piece of crap"
We have had a Munchkin high efficiency heater now for 6 years the unit is unreliable. If will shut off giving an f09 error once to twice a year. You can not safely leave your home for a extended period of time in the winter months knowing that the unit will shut down and pipes will freeze. The unit has to be periodically maintained. I would not recommend this unit or brand to anyone.


Date created: 2012-02-08 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"BUSH's FAULT"
In politics it seems that every thing bad was Bush's fault. So now the crawl space flooded and it cost $2200 to fix the boiler because it got flooded and that was the boilers fault????? You either have a bad pressure switch or more than likely the system pressure is low and guess what - the boiler doesn't control what the water pressure is in the system - So I guess if the kitchen sink backs up it's the MUNCHKIN's fault. Some of the complainers on this site have sent me pictures of their installed boilers and I will tell you they would be good for a laugh if it wasn't such a sad thing. I am sorry that you got screwed but you did go with the low bidder or you didn't do your research.


Date created: 2012-02-08 Name: K. Oborne
Location: GaNsevoort, NY
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Highly efficient at costing me money!"
POS for sure. Installation not the problem, it's the unit itself. Flooded crawl last year, replacement parts cost $2,200. Sitting here on Feb. 8, 2012 waiting for heating co. to fix. Have a pro error, which deals with pressure, so we will see if the installation is all that. Have a wood insert that can help with the heat so an overworked unit is not the issue either. Should be a rating even lower than very unsatisfied, something like...well I will keep it clean.


Date created: 2012-02-04 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.
Years owned: 10

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Gary Strandberg"
Just for your information the blowers are not a munchkin part. Those same blowers are used in almost every high efficiency boiler and water heater on the market today. If you are losing blowers it is because your boiler is not installed properly. Do you complainers not read what has been written by the installers here??? I feel sorry for the people that have been screwed by their installer but it doesn't matter what boiler you had installed if another brand had been installed instead of the Munchkin you would have been complaining about that brand instead. Don't you people do any research before you let someone install an expensive boiler into your house???? Did you get more than one quote. Did you look at the install manual at all while or after the boiler was installed??? Does your system look anything like the pictures in the book??? I will bet not. It is very important that the exhaust pipe be at least 18 inches above the intake and the water piping must look exactly like one of the drawings in the install manual.( there are some variations but must be installed by an expert in hydronics)


Date created: 2012-02-04 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Come On Dear Readers--Read The Posts"
Gary Strandberg--Darby,MT---You have an installation problem (probably concentric venting). Change your post purge on your boiler to 100 sec. "Use the Force, look to the venting, Luke".-----Sheila--Milford, PA--- Why do you think that the condensate line is clogged? Your boiler is only 2 years. old. It depends on where the blockage is. Is it in the boiler? Sheila, this is not something people can do easily for themselves. It involves dismantling the boiler to get to the hx. In 2 years, I would be surprised if you had a blockage. (Any f09 or f10 error codes?) However, for the layman, in an emergency, I would take an ear syringe, the rubber bulb type that you buy at the drugstore, an squirt some warm water into the hx through the condensate drain connected to the rear of the boiler and then suck the water out. Don't over do it with the water, just repeat the process until it is cleared. then get a qualified boiler guy to clean it correctly. If the clog is on the drain line outside of the boiler just flush it with water under pressure. Sheila, download the Vision 1 manual and read it.---Those of us that have experience, training and are knowledgeable can only point you dear readers in a certain direction. It is really up to your boiler guy and you to get to the source of your problems and fix them. htp makes great products and you shouldn't be experiencing the problem that are repeatedly reported on this site. ps--i just read the posts from the beginning to the present, do the same.


Date created: 2012-02-03 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"OOUGA-OOUGA--OOUGA--WARNING-WARNING---Munchkin's Shutting Down"
BCS--St. Paul, mn---say what??? Water dripping anywhere from the Munchkin is a serious, serious problem. That should be your first concern and be fixed, pronto. The source of the dripping water must be determined. Is water is coming from inside the boiler (not likely as the probe has a gasket on it) or from outside the boiler? How did you do a condensate flush? With an enema tube? I guess you can put a tube into the spark port and fill the combustion chamber with water, but that ain't how I do it. To do it right you need to remove the gas valve, blower and burner tube so that you can get into the combustion chamber and hose it out. When was the last time you did a major cleaning of your boiler? I find about 3yrs is max. First, all the spark igniter or rectifier probe is, is just a piece of wire in an insulator, unless the ceramic is cracked it doesn't need to be replaced. Just clean them with 200 grit wet & dry sandpaper (read my earlier posts on cleaning them and on adjusting the gap). The gap on the spark igniter must be at least the thickness of 2 quarters placed together. If the gap is too small, you will have intermittent ignitions and f09 codes. When the boiler start up, the control board starts the spark and then opens the gas valve and the gas flows into the burner tube and out in to the combustion chamber and ignites. If the spark doesn't spark because the moisture is grounding out the electricity to the probe or the gap is too small, ignition doesn't occur immediately, and the gas build up in the combustion chamber and when it does ignite, you get an explosion.---NOW--let's deal with the water. If it is condensate from combustion building up in the combustion chamber and grounding out the spark you need a major flush of the boiler trap to make sure the condensate flows freely. However, it you have a condensate neutralizer on you boiler, it may be plugged up, stopping the flow of condensate out of the boiler. Remove the tubing from the condensate outlet on the boiler and place it into a 5 gal pail and let the condensate drain into the bucket. You should get one to two gal of condensate a day in the bucket. In bad situations (plugged condensate drain) you can look into the viewing port and often see a waterline across the (back) target refractory. The other cause of water buildup is if the heat exchanger is leaking because of a crack, etc. Which is it? Boiler water or condensate? Test the dripping water from your spark port with a ph strip. If the ph is 3.0-4.0 (acidic)it is condensate. If the strip says 7.0 (neutral) or about that it is boiler water. No glycol systems just water systems only, please. If the water is coming from outside of the boiler look to the header, nipple connection or overflow valve. There was a problem with dripping nipples and pressure relief valve about the time you bought your boiler. These can be fixed. P.S. You can clean the probes until you are blue in the face and it won't make a difference if moisture is grounding out the spark or making it intermittent. As far as the spark probe being to far back that a new one on me, but what do I know. Good Luck. Perhaps, the Techs meant that the probe was to far away from the burner tube and should be moved closer to the tube? But it has been working fine for 7 yrs.

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