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Consumer Reviews of HTP boilers

Popularity:
#46  of 68 brands of boilers

22% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 375 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    71
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    15
  • Neutral
    94
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    10
  • Very Unsatisfied
    185

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Date created: 2012-12-16 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"GOOD boiler IF installed properly"
The Munchkin boilers I have installed for the last 12 years have had very few repair calls. The most notorious part for failure is the water pressure switch (pro code). If it is burning propane it must be cleaned yearly, On natural gas at least every two years. If you are losing the blower or 925 control it is caused by exhaust gas reversion or gasses rising out of the blower intake after the blower shuts off. I will let you in on a little secret - most of the high efficient boilers use the same internal parts. So bashing Munchkin when the only difference between it and Lochinvar Knight floor model,and many other brands is the controller. 99% of problems are caused by improper installation. Yeah I know YOU have heard this before but IT IS TRUE. Proper venting of ALL high efficient modulating boilers and furnaces is very critical. One of the inherent problems with Munchkin boilers is the lack of fall to the drain line - it has a bad habit of plugging up. When it does then you get F09's and F10's. plugged drain lines also destroys the front and back refractories. If the flame rod comes out with a reddish tint the boiler is holding water in the combustion chamber, If it comes out white you have exhaust gas reversion. I don't care what the install manual shows the exhaust pipe MUST be at least 18 inches above the intake pipe or 6 feet away down wind of the intake. Also call the distributor for HTP products in your area and find out who they recommend for service in your area. ( they give out my name here # These are good boilers. If you need to have the boiler replaced under warranty pay for the upgrade to the NEW ELITE FT. It is the new fire tube design that has been out for over three years now. #Triangle Tube was the first I believe# That is all that I install now. I don't have a problem with the older giononi style heat exchanger, I just believe that the new design fire tube boiler is far better. The new design still should be serviced yearly but it doesn't require yearly cleaning. I installed one of these 1 1/2 years ago and it cut their gas bills 40%. Usually savings is 25 to 30%. I have munchkins installed that the customer doesn't service until there is a problem. It usually takes 4 or 5 years to build up enough crud to cause a problem when the boiler is installed properly. I installed a Munchkin T80 and on purpose never took the cover off other than to install it. I never checked the combustion or any of the settings. All that I did was hang it on the wall, hook up the gas and water piping,hook up the electrical and thermostat wires, filled the system, purged the air and threw the power switch. This boiler ran with not one miss fire in three years. I know this because the computer hook up that I have shows the history ) After three years I notice the flame rod was getting dirty. This boiler had a layer of crud three inches wide and 1/4 inch deep inside on the bottom of the heat exchanger. did a before and after combustion analysis and I gained 1% by cleaning. This was my own boiler heating my in floor heated barn to 50* all winter for three winters. 0 Problems.


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Date created: 2012-12-10 Name: R. Beck
Location: Glenwood MN

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Junk product"
Thought I would save some money and went dual fuel with the Munchkin Contender 120 as the backup. It was well acclaimed by the installer. My mistake for being trustful and not doing more homework. Don't make the same mistake. There is absolutely no comfort that this unit will fire when we do off peak. There are dire consequences during a Minnesota winter. Any details on a class action suit?


Date created: 2012-11-26 Name: L Petrucci
Location: Gilford, NH

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Hate this thing!"
I'm reading other posts and forgive me if I haven't read all 16 pages, but it sounds like a few of you really know what you are doing, so I would love some advice. The boiler was installed in 2007. The first year we had no problems, but every year since it has broken. Every time, the blue plate has been corroded. This time, the control panel is not getting electricity. Every plumber that comes out tells us that the intake and outtake vents are not correct, but when I look at the manual, it looks like it was installed exactly like the diagram "sidewall venting with concentric vent kit." Obviously this is not working the way it should, and I would like to tell the plumber who originally installed it that it wasn't installed correctly, but it looks like it was. But I see other people posting here that it is much better to have the vents separate, and at least 18" apart. Can anyone give me advice as to how to proceed with this? This thing is driving me crazy.


Date created: 2012-11-18 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Andrew"
Andrew - f10 fault is from the fire being snuffed after the burner is lit. So in other words the boiler lit fine and then after a short time just went out. This is usually caused by water build up inside the heat exchanger. Did anyone flush the drain lines. If the boiler doesn't drain properly you will get F10'S. I suggest that you go back and read what I and others have written on this site.


Date created: 2012-10-31 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Blower Racket"
J. C. Pernicka--Bellvue, Colorado---Yes, I can tell you from 40 years of experience: Installation is a big deal, especially with the new high efficiency boilers. If you have a Dungs gas valve look at the swirl plate and make sure it is not disintegrating, especially since you have replaced blowers before. It is a plastic plate between the gas valve and the blower that swirls the air and gas. If you have a Honeywell gas valve, make sure that you didn't suck something into the blower. Something may be unbalancing the impeller or the bearings maybe going. Lastly, you need to have a combustion analysis on the boiler. You may mistakenly believe that the blower is making the noise when it is "flashing" in the heat exchanger caused by the boiler pump not moving water through the hx fast enough. If so, clean the pump and or replace the cartridge. Munchkin is a good boiler and trouble free if installed correctly and maintained. (You do maintain the boiler and clean the combustion chamber?)--read the posts--


Date created: 2012-10-17 Name: John
Location: Framingham, MA

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"Working 7 years and still going strong..."
I had our Munchkin t50 installed in 2005. The installer was a real pro and did a great job...kept inlet and exhaust vents far apart so the intake fan/blower doesn't pull in the acidic exhaust and fail, very clean and professional job (some other plumbers and contractors have commented on the good design and quality fittings/components he used). Initially we used the same installer for cleanings but it cost too much so I changed to another heating company and I have them come every other year to clean the leads and heat exchanger...they tell me it is pretty clean so I think it may not be necessary for annual cleanings in my case. The system works fine so far...provides adequate hot water (we also have a SuperStor Ultra 45 Gal HW heater for a family of 7...1900 sq ft home) and heat. Haven't had a component fail in 7 years...seems from one reviewer that installing these correctly and with adequate sizing/cleaning is critical...not to mention an honest installer.


Date created: 2012-10-09 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"No Code--No Lite"
Diana--Cheyenne W---Well, first read the posts. Sorry that you had so much trouble. You have a gas reversion problem because of faulty exhaust and intake installation. When did you do a major cleaning and tune-up? No Code--No Lite: No code tells me that the major components are ok. No lite tells me the following: No gas(propane tank empty or valve off?), no spark or hot surface ignitor not functioning, no combustion air. Those are the three things necessary for combustion. Check to see if you have gas. Check to see if you have spark or that the hot surface ignitor is bright red. Is the spark cable grounding out? Is the spark probe cracked and grounding out? This is what I think it is. You have a plugged condensate drain and the moisture in the combustion chamber is grounding out the spark. But I think that you would still get a code. Keypad plugged into the control board? Hope this helps.


Date created: 2012-10-09 Name: Diana
Location: Cheyenne WY

Satisfaction Rating:

2 of 5 stars Somewhat Unsatisfied

Review:
"Not liking Munchkin right now"
We have a Munchkin boiler for heating our home and our water. First the fan caused problems - had at least 3 new fans before we finally had one that did not separate. Have had a new circuit board installed, then it worked well for several years. Now while we were out of town, something went wrong. Came home to hear the boiler trying to light, however it did not light. No code to determine what may be the problem. Our local plumbing company had been helpful - not so much this time. They cannot determine the problem and aren't very communicative with us. Ordered and installed a new circuit board and that did not fix the problem - so we have been without hot water and heat for the past two weeks. We live in an area where the lows have been in the 30'S. Snowed this past weekend - so we really need to either solve the problem or install a new boiler.


Date created: 2012-08-02 Name: Leonard Hortick
Location: Boulder CO

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Mr"
Do yourself a favor and do not buy any Munchkin products. My boiler is totally junk and needs to be replaced after only ten years of use.


Date created: 2012-05-12 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.
Years owned: 10

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Sam H."
Sam H. - You need to have the heat exchanger cleaned. If the flame rod and igniters are coated white it means that you have exhaust reversion. install a 90* elboe on the exhaust pipe and turn it up about 18 inches then install a 45* angle with a stainless steel screen in it. The boiler has to be tipped back just enough for the bubble of a level to touch the line, not past the line. Put the level on the front of the heat exchanger with everything assembled. do not put it on the front of the boiler jacket.

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