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Consumer Reviews of HTP boilers

Popularity:
#50  of 67 brands of boilers

23% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 359 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    70
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    15
  • Neutral
    94
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    9
  • Very Unsatisfied
    171

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Date created: 2013-06-04 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Leaking Boiler"
Darshan Suri--North Syracuse, New York -- I've been so busy. The older you get, the less time you have. I'm at the point where I'm running out time. It is helpful to know where the leak is originating. What most folks and more than handful of boiler installer ignore is water quality. Poor water chemistry can destroy a heat exchanger in short order. When filling a boiler, I will use distilled water or deionized water if there is a question of water quality. This is especially imperative when using anti- freeze in your system. Improper air-fuel mixture can adversely affect the acidity in the condensate, as can laundry room chemicals. A boiler or water heater should never be installed where chemicals are in the boiler air intake environment. Water leaking from the pressure relief valve is indicative of a failed PRV, a pressure higher than 30# in the system. Too large a pump or a pump wrongly positioned in the system, and a water logged expansion tank. Flashing in the HX can cause water discharge. Hope this is helpful.



Date created: 2013-01-27 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"That's Terrible"
K powell--Minnesota---I'm sorry to hear of your misfortunes. This is quite serious. You should contact the Minnesota consumer affairs department concerning what happened with pictures and a statement from your fire chief, building department and a local heating contractor. Also, let htp know that you are doing so. Often times, State Warranty Laws preempt manufacturer's warranties. Did you have a new home buyer insurance policy? I am inclined to doubt that it was an electrical problem considering what you described. I sense that it may have been a failure of the combustion chamber with hot gases escaping into the compartment. This might have been discovered with a yearly maintenance before the heating season. Also, use smoke detectors. Smoke detectors saves lives.


Date created: 2013-01-26 Name: k powell
Location: minnesota

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Horrid product !!!horrid company!!!!!!"
We purchased our house less than 2 years ago.We were excited to know that the boiler had just been purchased 2 months prior to us buying the house.Two nights ago I fell asleep on the couch (my husband works 2nd shift) and I woke to smoke all over the house.(I Could smell an electric wire burning smell)It was one of the coldest nights in minutes 30 below..I ran around the house trying to find out what it could be. I followed the smell to my basement, when I opened the door smoke just billowed out, I called 911 and the fire chief arrived first. He said the whole wiring and everything on the boiler was melted. It had tripped the breaker so no fire thank God. But a ton of smoke everywhere.and this boiler was under 2 years old, when my husband called this company they said the warranty doesn't transfer ownership... really??? We bought the house and the warranty does not come with, this product or company should not be in business!!!! Do not do business with these people. I could have been killed because of this incident if I had not of woke up. Our lives were turned up side down because of this company's negligence and they wont face up to their responsibility!!!!!


Date created: 2013-01-25 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
""We had Paris""
J Brown--Menominee, MI---You may have multiple problems. "...round up the usual suspects" Back to basics: routine maintenance? Combustion chamber and condensate trap cleaning not greater than 3-4 years between. Natural gas pressure to valve 7" w/c (3/4" supply pipe and at least 10' from the meter? Combustion analysis on gas valve (co and 02)set correctly for low and high fire rates? F09 fault code causes---Burner tube not secured tightly to burner plate with the four screws (with a new gasket); Condensate line not draining (clean the combustion chamber)?; Gap on the spark ignitor is 1/4" and probes are clean and insulator not cracked; Rectification probe is clean and in the flame; Electrical plugs are connected tight and green ground wires are grounded and the polarity on the 110v wires are correct. new BLOWER---Make sure that the replacement blower is for a 140m; There is a cork gasket on the new blower's intake (positioned correctly?)(Honeywell gas valves use the cork gasket) Make sure that the hole on the brass vent on the rear of the Honeywell gas valve is open to the atmosphere; There is a new clear rubber gasket between the blower output and the blower to burner passage that came with the blower, use it. Check to make sure no plastic blower impeller parts lodged in the passage. multiple starts, no COMBUSTION--- If the spark probe is sparking (with the correct gap and good ground); It is a air/fuel (gas valve) problem, a moisture in combustion chamber problem, a blower problem ( with the 925 controller, press the s2 & s3 button for 1 sec- ser should show on the display-press the s1 or s2 button to decrease or increase the blower speed, the display should read the rpm of the blower, display=269low--380hi--press s1 & s2 to exit. If it works blower is okay loud combustion rumble & erratic rectifier CURRENT--- most likely an air/fuel problem which is tied to an f09. The rectifier current, with a good ground (burner tube and boiler), clean probes should be 4.1 micro amps when running. It can start at 2.5 to 4 micro amps on start up and quickly go to 4.1 ua (this is what rock solid is)., Erratic rectification is an air/fuel or grounding issue. a multimeter must be capable of reading 1 to 10 micro amps. That said, My humble advice is to clean the probes, install a new burner tube gasket and tighten the four screws very tightly, and get a combustion analysis with a recently calibrated combustion analyzer. burner TUBE---Remove the gas valve, blower, and burner plate as one single unit. Check the refractories for damage. Remove the 4 screws holding the burner tube to the burner plate. Remove the burner plate refractory (fragile) very carefully from the burner plate. Clean the old burner tube gasket from the burner tube and burner plate. Reverse the process using a new gasket. Report back. 10 years, see a Munchkin is a good boiler!


Date created: 2013-01-25 Name: Hickory Tate
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Munchkins with exhaust in the combustion"
I have worked on a dozen or so Munchkins and learn something new almost every time. The biggest problem I've seen was a deteriorated fan. I am thinking that this might help Diane in Cheyanne. The problem was corrosive air in the intake process. It took out the swirl plate and must have been an issue for a while before finally, the blower stopped working. It looked like it had caught on fire. I got all the replacement parts, then found out from htp that this unit fell within a brief window of manufacturing dates that had a recall due to a vent leak in the exhaust. At the same time, it may have been recirculating combustion air through the intake. a tip off to this problem that I noticed was the presence of mineral speckles on the metal parts within the machine, brass and aluminum/zinc alike. In that case, the unit was replaced with the current model, the Contender.


Date created: 2013-01-24 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Installed by my plumber"
Remember folks just because they say they know what they are doing - very few plumbers know how to install a high efficient boiler. Same goes for most heating and air guys. Find someone that has been installing high efficiency boilers for at least 5 years. To do a proper tune up requires a combustion analyzer. Is there a small hole ( 3/8 inch ) drilled into your boilers vent pipe about 1 to 2 feet from the boiler? If not it has never been properly installed or serviced. (The hole must be covered when done testing) I use metal tape.


Date created: 2013-01-24 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Mr Brown"
Mr Brown - From what you have written your boiler is more than likely running lean. It needs to be set up to run less than 20 ppm co at low speed (I like to see about 15 to 18 ppm) and 100 ppm co at max speed. The noises are usually caused by lean burn. Also you need to check the drain line to make sure that it is not blocked. The burner gasket is more than likely gone. (the old ones deteriorated) Put anti-size on all threads when you put it back together. When You cleaned the heat exchanger did you clean between the tubes? When you remove the flame sensor does it have a red tinge? If it does it is getting wet.


Date created: 2013-01-02 Name: D. Sellers
Location: Manhattan, KS

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Worse purchase ever"
This boiler has so many problems I consider my heating and air guy one of my best friends. Be prepared to spend a lot of money yearly fixing the problems that occur.


Date created: 2012-12-26 Name: mike gaspar
Location: Oakland, Ca.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Munchkin are under sizing the gas line and venting"
Most issues around the Munchkin are under sizing the gas line and venting. Make sure that the venting line has been glued properly (this will destroy swirl plates as not gluing properly will allow gases to go back into the unit). Sidewall or roof venting is fine as long as there is nothing blocking the venting (so gases do not get sucked back into the venting).


Date created: 2012-12-16 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"GOOD boiler IF installed properly"
The Munchkin boilers I have installed for the last 12 years have had very few repair calls. The most notorious part for failure is the water pressure switch (pro code). If it is burning propane it must be cleaned yearly, On natural gas at least every two years. If you are losing the blower or 925 control it is caused by exhaust gas reversion or gasses rising out of the blower intake after the blower shuts off. I will let you in on a little secret - most of the high efficient boilers use the same internal parts. So bashing Munchkin when the only difference between it and Lochinvar Knight floor model,and many other brands is the controller. 99% of problems are caused by improper installation. Yeah I know YOU have heard this before but IT IS TRUE. Proper venting of ALL high efficient modulating boilers and furnaces is very critical. One of the inherent problems with Munchkin boilers is the lack of fall to the drain line - it has a bad habit of plugging up. When it does then you get F09's and F10's. plugged drain lines also destroys the front and back refractories. If the flame rod comes out with a reddish tint the boiler is holding water in the combustion chamber, If it comes out white you have exhaust gas reversion. I don't care what the install manual shows the exhaust pipe MUST be at least 18 inches above the intake pipe or 6 feet away down wind of the intake. Also call the distributor for HTP products in your area and find out who they recommend for service in your area. ( they give out my name here # These are good boilers. If you need to have the boiler replaced under warranty pay for the upgrade to the NEW ELITE FT. It is the new fire tube design that has been out for over three years now. #Triangle Tube was the first I believe# That is all that I install now. I don't have a problem with the older giononi style heat exchanger, I just believe that the new design fire tube boiler is far better. The new design still should be serviced yearly but it doesn't require yearly cleaning. I installed one of these 1 1/2 years ago and it cut their gas bills 40%. Usually savings is 25 to 30%. I have munchkins installed that the customer doesn't service until there is a problem. It usually takes 4 or 5 years to build up enough crud to cause a problem when the boiler is installed properly. I installed a Munchkin T80 and on purpose never took the cover off other than to install it. I never checked the combustion or any of the settings. All that I did was hang it on the wall, hook up the gas and water piping,hook up the electrical and thermostat wires, filled the system, purged the air and threw the power switch. This boiler ran with not one miss fire in three years. I know this because the computer hook up that I have shows the history ) After three years I notice the flame rod was getting dirty. This boiler had a layer of crud three inches wide and 1/4 inch deep inside on the bottom of the heat exchanger. did a before and after combustion analysis and I gained 1% by cleaning. This was my own boiler heating my in floor heated barn to 50* all winter for three winters. 0 Problems.

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