Consumer Reviews of HTP boilers
Read more about HTP boilers
Date created: 2010-10-29
"Reputable Munchkin Installer"
Most of the problems that I have come across are installation problems. It takes training to install a high efficiency boiler. They don't install like the old cast iron boilers and if installed like that, the installation will fail. Make sure that your installer know what he is doing. In other words a hydronic specialist, not a plumber. Although, some plumber know. F09 fault code! F09=flame failure. check to see that you have gas with a manometer. Too low a pressure will cause the flame to fail, too high will damage the gas valve. Test the gas valve with the manometer, is the valve drawing an negative pressure? Make sure that the boiler is at least 10' from the gas meter and that the pipe is at least 3/4" in diameter. The Munchkin draws a vacuum against the gas line and must have a full volume of gas to ignite. No flex lines less than 3/4" internal diameter. Is the gas piping sized correctly for capacity from the meter? Is the ignitor sparking or the hot surface ignitor glowing? The gap on the spark ignitor is 1/4"? F09 faults are commonly an air/ gas mixture problem. You need a combustion analyzer to set it. Really Important!!! Make sure that the condensate is draining from the boiler. Moisture in the combustion chamber can disrupt the ignition. Is the flue and fresh air intake separated enough that combustion gases aren't pulled back into the air intake. Make sure that the rectification current is as close to 4.1 microamps as possible. If not clean the flame rod and check that is in the fame when the Munchkin is running. A floating rectification current around 2.0-2.9 indicates that the burner is not properly grounded to the boiler compartment. 4 screws fasten the burner to the boiler plate. These can loosen causing a floating rectification current. Lastly, make sure that the Molex plugs on the computer are making good contact. I have actually had to pull the metal jacks out and tin them with solder. (rare) Most of this is technical that should be left to the Installer.
Date created: 2010-10-28
Name: Jay Plesset
Location: Oregon City, Oregon
"F14 fan overspeed"
New house construction. We moved in just 3 years ago. After several issues with the original installation and the heating contractor, it had been fine for nearly 2-1/2 years. Started giving F14 and E14 errors (fan overspeed). Heat Transfer says, "replace the blower". $700 for a blower, and maybe 30 minutes work. The blower appears to work fine, and when I reset the error, we get heat for a time, too, then another error. This blower is manufactured by "EBM Papst" in Germany. The speed sensor is a Hall Effect passive device. Theoretially, we should be able to replace the bad electronics for a few dollars, but Heat Transfer won't let us do that. Throw away a perfect good motor/fan, and replace it. I don't expect that they buy these for $700, so they really don't have any reason to fis the problem. If you can't make money selling boilers, you can make money fixing the old ones. . .
Date created: 2010-10-28
Name: M. Byrd
"How do you spell 'garbage'? M-U-N-C-H-K-I-N"
I have had this boiler in place for three years now, and I can say that it is the worst piece of hvac related equipment I have even encounterd. From day one, it failed to perform as it should. I have had many service calls to fix it. However, it still refuses to stay lit. Don't let anyone talk you into one of these units. They are garbage. I'm getting ready to bite the financial bullet and have it replaced with something that is reliable.
Date created: 2010-10-17
Location: Denver, Co.
I which I would not have let that plumber talk me into a munchkin, i should have just put a cast Iron boiler back in.Oh and when I called for service he said oh I don't fix them I just put them in,in 7 years I have averaged 800.00 a year to fix shit on this piece of crap.Oh the savings I was going to get,well divide 800.00 by 12 and its costing me more now to heat my house then it did with that 50 year old cast iron boiler.........Oh and good luck finding anyone who knows jack about these crapy boilers. I have tried 7 different companys here in Denver
Date created: 2010-10-16
Name: Steven Whitbeck
Location: Grand Rapids MI
D.W. - you used enough tubing you just didn't make enough loops - 5/8 inch tubing should have had a maximum loop length of 250 ft ( I use 200 ft as design length) As far as condensation getting into the intake. It isn't condensation it is exhaust gas recycling back into the intake that causes all of the damage. You won't have any problems for two years ( honeymoon period )untill enough damage is done and then you will find out what reversion will do to your boiler. I suggest at least 18 inches of vertical seperation or 6 feet of horizontal downwind seperation. Steve Whitbeck
Date created: 2010-10-12
Location: Austin MN
Built new gaeage last year / My wife did all the manifold soldier. We mounted the system as per instructions . 36x30 slab . 24/7 70 degrees/ About $40 a month fuel cost . Only 2 5/8 350 x2 runs/. My old furanance man said I didn't install enough tubing . He was wrong. I also purposely mounted the all in one intake exhaust flew with intake air on the bottom installer said condensation would run into unit . I told him he was insane . After the heating season was going strong . In Jan . He came over and inspected it for condensation . and paid me the wager we made. $1000 that I would get condensation back into unit . Didn't happen can't happen and I won't tell him why . But great unit never a problem and its heats great and cheap. My whole system including floor tubbing and instalation came to $5,500 mE and wife did all the work . First time . Every time.
Date created: 2010-10-11
Name: scott massey
Didnt actually buy the munchkin boiler myself its in my apartment that i rent. I owned a 4 unit apartment house before selling it and renting this apartment that had 4 weil mclain boilers, never a problem. dealt with this boiler for 3 years now.. service man comes regularly. every 6 months. still doesnt work..take cold showers all spring and fall.. works great in winter and in the summer..never works in the spring or fall. maybe the service guy doesnt know what he is doing. i even printed a manual up and put it on the boiler for him..maybe he should read it..it has a thermister code all the time.. replaced with new..still no good
Date created: 2010-08-06
I have 4 Munchkin boilers. Three of them have worked without fail but one has been a constant problem. The company has sent representatives to look at the problem unit and has not done anything to reslove the issue. I am currently without hot water and am looking for a replacement unit that is not a Munchkin. I'm looking for a company that makes a good system and stands behind it when there are problems.
Date created: 2010-07-07
"Truth about condensing boilers"
All the reviews on this boiler are correct - slope unit so consate drains - have it serviced by a reputable and knowledgeable tech. Do not use part changers - All hi eff boilers and furnaces are an expensive addition to your home. Don't treat them like your 30 year old unit that was serviced every 4 or 5 years. They have more parts and they will give you better comfort but not if you ignore them. Just one other note, the dirt in the gas side on these boilers is the iron coming out of the stainless steel (try a magnet). If you ignore the service, don't clean it because you will have issues. Just like if you don't change your air filter on a car or furnace. Customers choose a contractor, not a contractor choosing a customer. So, do your research.
Date created: 2010-06-08
Name: G. Pelissier
Years owned: 5
My Munchkin has worked great. I had the fo9 occur when I first purchased 3 or 4 times. I undo two screws and pulled out the flame detector. I used steel wool to brush the unit. A rust looking film collects on the unit. The steel wool will wipe off and the unit has worked great. Preventive maintenance every 6 months. Takes about 10 minutes. Be sure to turn off power and unplug the spart plug.
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