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Consumer Reviews of HTP boilers

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Popularity:
#50  of 67 brands of boilers

23% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 359 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    70
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    15
  • Neutral
    94
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    9
  • Very Unsatisfied
    171

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Date created: 2016-01-16 Name: Ethan Ngo
Location: San Jose, CA

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Do not buy from this company, warned."
Bought two commercial water heater from this company and paid over $17,000 installed. One started leaking after 1 1/2 years into service. Still under warranty, but the first thing they said was we had a hard water problem in our area and that voids the warranty. Apparently they knew that was the problem here because other businesses around my area had the same problem before (but they still sold the system to us anyways), so they didn't even come out to check the problem with the leak. Said we would have to pay to get it inspected. No matter what, "it is our problem" because we had hard water. Now I have to ask, what city or place does not have hard water? They would not warranty but do not hesitate to sell us another system at discount. Luckily I'm not stupid enough to fall for it again and went with another brand instead and it has been fine since. But sure enough, after another year the second HTP water heater leaked as well. So there you have it. That's my first experience with this company and so hopefully nobody else gets hurt like us by writing this review. You've been warned!



Date created: 2015-03-05 Location: Pittsburgh PA

Satisfaction Rating:

4 of 5 stars Somewhat Satisfied

Review:
"Heat Transfer Products Boiler Review"
I have owned the HTP boiler for 2 years. It is quite and efficient. No problems to date and I have only had 1 service for standard maintenance. I would definitely buy this same brand again and recommend it to a friend. The model series I own is the MC series. I have been told the igniter might need to be replaced around 2 years but so far no issues with mine. This boiler is servicing a 2500 sf home and does it flawlessly. The unit was installed by a local HVAC contractor in only 1 day. The service man only had good things to say about this brand as we'll. I do clean the dust off the boiler every few months and the factory finish still looks great. I believe the cost of this unit is comparable to other boilers of the same quality. You can not hear the boiler running at all from upstairs.


Date created: 2014-12-01 Name: S. Hongould
Location: Canada

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"Very reliable"
I have a Voyager boiler with a hydronic coil. Besides replacing the igniter in a 18-month period and now about every 2 years, and replacing the boiler once, it's been rock solid. This is a household of 5 and it's heating a 3500 square foot home and domestic hot water for 14 years.


Date created: 2014-05-10 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"FO9 error code"
Tutti-- Wisconsin---You should not get any leaking. You need to determine the source of the leak. When you have a leak, fresh water comes into the boiler, carrying oxygen into the system. Oxygen decomposes any iron in your system piping. Boilers are not supposed to leak. As for the f09 error code, read the posts as it is very well covered by my "Homer" posts. You do need to clean your boiler at least every 3 years. That means doing more than just cleaning the probes (which should be part of the yearly inspection). The built-in condensation trap need to be cleaned so that the condensate that is produced during combustion can leave the boiler's combustion chamber. You need a boiler guy (hydronics) to check out the leak as there is so many places that leaks can occur. Put a glass under the overflow pipe (pressure relief valve, prv) and see if it is coming from there. If the leak is coming from the prv, check system pressure on the gauge. It should be about 12-15 psi cold and when hot less than 20 psi. Also, if the expansion tank is water logged, pressure in the system can exceed 30 psi and water will be forced out the prv. Any of these caused requires replacing the prv when repairs are made. Read the posts, folks!


Date created: 2013-12-04 Name: Homer

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"F03--F05 Errors"
Randy engel--wichita ks---I don't know what model boiler you have or what size.----F03--Boiler Water Return Thermister. Check plug and wiring to the thermister. Unplug the control board plugs and plug back in securely. I suppose that a thermister reading a lower water temperature than the boiler is producing may cause the boiler water to be 230 degrees and flashing to occur in the hx? I have to think that one thru. If you still have the f03 error, replace the thermister.You may have to drain water out of the boiler to do this.----F05--The supply water temperature at or over 230 degrees F. If the boiler jumps or shakes with a banging sound, you have a water flow thru the boiler problem.(insufficient flow with flashing in the hx) If this is the reason, then you are trashing the boiler when it is a problem not related to the boiler. The boiler is just doing it's job of shutting down and notifying you of a problem. Other Possibilities: You have a plugged heat exchanger (HX), unlikely. You have an isolation valve closed or partly closed, possible. You have pump that is not rotating because it is not energized, not installed with the flow, or not rotating because the rotor is binding because of dirt, most likely. If the boiler is above radiation there could be air in the line somewhere, unlikely. If the boiler pump is a Taco pump the cartridge is most likely plugged with magnetite. Replace the cartridge. If a Grundfos pump take apart and clean with CLR or Lime scale remover. A professional should do the work. Out of the Installation Manual: "F03--Interrupted or shorted return thermister--This code appears if the return thermister located on the Munchkin Outlet manifold has been interrupted or shorted. Remedy-- Check the wiring connection and connectors on the thermister. If the connections are ok, hit the S4 Reset button. If the unit locks out again, replace the return thermister."


Date created: 2013-10-14 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"F09 Code Again"
Kevin B.-Northern Michigan--Kevin F09 Error Code is the easiest code to fix. Read the posts as there is so much info on the F09 Error Code that I'm tired writing about it. Without a flame sense (it is called flame rectification), the boiler will turn off. You can understand that if there wasn't any flame in the combustion chamber, raw gas would fill the whole system with possible explosive results. The control board sends a minute AC current through the flame which changes it from AC to DC current and the control board looks for that DC current. The control board keeps the gas valve open and everything else operating if it finds it. If that DC current is missing or much smaller than 4 microamps, the control board doesn't see a flame and shuts everything down for safety reasons. The path that this AC current takes is from the control board, to the rectifier probe, thru the flame to the burner tube, thru the 4 bolts holding the burner tube, to the boiler front plate to the boiler front plate to ground, to the control board. This is called a circuit. Anything that interrupts the flow thru this circuit will cause an F09 Error Code. The usual culprit is the 4 bolts holding the burner tube to the boiler plate. (They get loose) Replace the burner tube gasket (7250p- 070), clean the gasket surfaces first, cinch down the 4 bolts good-n-tight. Read the posts to see how I clean the probes. Be careful of the probe gaskets and the refractories as they are very fragile.


Date created: 2013-10-11 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Insufficient Data"
Genene C Hill--Kaysville, Utah---It is difficult to analyze when I can't see it. I don't know what you mean when you say it doesn't start. What happens when you hold the reset button on the keypad down? There are a lot of things that could be your problem. So, we will "round up the usual suspects". The fact that the keypad is showing the temperature of the boiler, water is good as it probably means that the control board is okay. There are no fault codes which probably confirms it. Can you access the control board programing? Is the control board properly programed through the keypad (outdoor reset, etc.)? Many thermostats use batteries in the thermostat to operate the thermostat electronics. Is the batteries new and properly installed? The thermostat is just a switch. The thermostat tells the boiler to turn on. The wiring between the thermostat and the boiler must be intact and making good contact. The first thing that I would do is cut the power to the boiler. Then unplug and replug all the harnesses on the control board. Does that turn on the boiler? Then I would go to the boiler and disconnect the thermostat from the boiler at the boiler (the two gray wires labeled thermostat) and then connect the two gray wires (they are called the TT wires) together. Does the boiler start, blower start, ignition fire, etc.? If it does then the thermostat or the thermostat wiring is the problem. I would then look at the control board. If you have the software on your computer, I would reprogram the control board or take the control board to the wholesale company that sells HTP products and have them reprogram it. You need the serial number, make and model and revision info. If that fails, you will need a new control board. Hope this helps.


Date created: 2013-06-20 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"To Keep it or Not to Keep it. That is the Question"
Geoff Marshall--Little Deer Isle, ME---The Munchkin is a legacy model, but that doesn't mean it is not a good replacement. The efficiency is a little lower than the newer models, but that is insignificant when you know how efficiency is calculated. A high efficiency boiler is most efficient when the return water is the coldest, that rarely is the case in actual practice. The more cold (sic), the more condensate is produced, the more efficient it is. I would install it (but I'm cheap). It should just slip into the old piping, saving installation costs. I'm curious as to how you got a leak behind the back refractory and how it was discovered. On another note, I'm very suspicious of well water. A ph of 6.5 is still acidic. Mineralization in well water under the heat load can solidify on the interior of the hx rapidly. Studies show that a small encrustation of minerals can radically reduce the heat transfer thru the hx to the water. Walmart sells distilled water for under $1 a gallon, very affordable. I would fill a system with that. Stray electrical currents traveling thru the mineralized boiler water can cause damage, too. Look, the unit may have been manufactured 4 years ago, but it is a new unit. Read these post and double check your installation, old and new. At least HTP didn't send you just a heat exchanger. I know $1000 is a lot of money, but it is a $3800 boiler. You are replacing an 8 year old boiler, too. I know that I would have felt more appreciative if it had been a newer model. Considering it all, I would install it. Good luck. Remember, luck is knowledge plus opportunity.


Date created: 2013-06-04 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Leaking Boiler"
Darshan Suri--North Syracuse, New York -- I've been so busy. The older you get, the less time you have. I'm at the point where I'm running out time. It is helpful to know where the leak is originating. What most folks and more than handful of boiler installer ignore is water quality. Poor water chemistry can destroy a heat exchanger in short order. When filling a boiler, I will use distilled water or deionized water if there is a question of water quality. This is especially imperative when using anti- freeze in your system. Improper air-fuel mixture can adversely affect the acidity in the condensate, as can laundry room chemicals. A boiler or water heater should never be installed where chemicals are in the boiler air intake environment. Water leaking from the pressure relief valve is indicative of a failed PRV, a pressure higher than 30# in the system. Too large a pump or a pump wrongly positioned in the system, and a water logged expansion tank. Flashing in the HX can cause water discharge. Hope this is helpful.


Date created: 2013-01-27 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"That's Terrible"
K powell--Minnesota---I'm sorry to hear of your misfortunes. This is quite serious. You should contact the Minnesota consumer affairs department concerning what happened with pictures and a statement from your fire chief, building department and a local heating contractor. Also, let htp know that you are doing so. Often times, State Warranty Laws preempt manufacturer's warranties. Did you have a new home buyer insurance policy? I am inclined to doubt that it was an electrical problem considering what you described. I sense that it may have been a failure of the combustion chamber with hot gases escaping into the compartment. This might have been discovered with a yearly maintenance before the heating season. Also, use smoke detectors. Smoke detectors saves lives.

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