Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

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Date created: 2013-04-30 Name: Darshan Suri
Location: North Syracuse, NY

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Model 80M-R2"
I have 3 years old boiler. During first year, it took the supplier a week to fix the leak. Even manufacturer's rep had to come to supervise the fix. Again in December 1212 leak is developed and I have spent $780.00 but leak is not fixed. Manufacturer's rep came and examine the boiler and said nothing is wrong with the unit. Need replacement of vent collar. The local company who supplied and installed is asking $875 plus tax. The boiler unit itself is under 12 years warranty. Any one is welcome to rescue me from these butchers or I should throw the unit and get some thing which is more reliable and average technician may be able to handle it.

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Date created: 2013-04-10 Name: arron
Location: Cincinnati ohio

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"heat transfer products"
I'm not shocked to read some of these poor reviews. Unfortunately I at one point lacked the ability to install these units correctly, which caused me a lot of issues. I pretty much gave up on the boiler. A different company convinced me to go to the training facility at heat transfer. Since then I have put in over 200 of their boilers with only 2 small issues. If installed correctly, it is by far the best boiler you can buy! I have made tons of money, thanks to this boiler. I strongly recommend it to anyone who wants to save on energy bills. I wish I could help all who have these boilers. People, who don't know how to install these, should stop. There only hurting the customer. Good luck to all, try to call a Rep for heat transfer and find a qualified installer. Thanks.

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Date created: 2013-01-28 Name: J Brown
Location: Menominee, MI

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Homer, Steven…. huge thank you !!"
With any luck, problem has been resolved. If this is the case (and I believe it is), your comments have been *spot-on*. Unit has been functioning flawlessly for the past 72 hours. (Nice to have it back - I owe you guys a beer). My issue, which I also believe is the cause of many other customer review complaints, insufficient grounding of the burner to the faceplate cover. Your comments and additional research led to better understanding of the rectifier probe (flame sensor) circuit. The controller provides an AC-current signal to the rectifier probe. Dissimilar metal structure of the rectifier probe converts the AC- current into a DC-current, which is conducted to ground, but only if a flame is present. Ionic particles within the flame atmosphere provide electrical continuity, completing the closed circuit to ground via the burner. Of course, if the burner is not properly fastened (grounded) to the faceplate (via screws), the electrical circuit remains open, causing unit malfunction. Through time (ten years, in my case), the refractory material between the burner and faceplate becomes slightly deformed, which allows an air gap and particulate contamination to interfere with proper grounding of the burner. Resolving this issue, each burn cycle, I now have a solid 3 to 5 microamp connection (relative to flame size). Your maintenance procedure to change the burner gasket properly reseats the burner and screw assembly, which reinsures a grounded connection. Proper grounding of the burner seems to also resolved my issue of the rumbling vibration during start-up… but, I still have the occasional French- horn entertainment during low modulation, which I can live with (we simply dance to the music). I think this is a venture issue (original design), being incompatible with the new aluminum impeller (blower assy), causing turbulent air flow. Steven, yes, I use a thin ss strip to gently carefully clean out particulate between hx coil loops, thanks. (I hope you guys are getting a commission from helping others… thanks again for your advice. ps: I installed my boiler also, but don’t tell htp).

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Date created: 2013-01-24 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Installed by my plumber"
Remember folks just because they say they know what they are doing - very few plumbers know how to install a high efficient boiler. Same goes for most heating and air guys. Find someone that has been installing high efficiency boilers for at least 5 years. To do a proper tune up requires a combustion analyzer. Is there a small hole ( 3/8 inch ) drilled into your boilers vent pipe about 1 to 2 feet from the boiler? If not it has never been properly installed or serviced. (The hole must be covered when done testing) I use metal tape.

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Date created: 2013-01-24 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Mr Brown"
Mr Brown - From what you have written your boiler is more than likely running lean. It needs to be set up to run less than 20 ppm co at low speed (I like to see about 15 to 18 ppm) and 100 ppm co at max speed. The noises are usually caused by lean burn. Also you need to check the drain line to make sure that it is not blocked. The burner gasket is more than likely gone. (the old ones deteriorated) Put anti-size on all threads when you put it back together. When You cleaned the heat exchanger did you clean between the tubes? When you remove the flame sensor does it have a red tinge? If it does it is getting wet.

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Date created: 2013-01-23 Name: Rich O
Location: mahwah nj

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"tech support"
First problem is many a installer will over size these boilers(to big for house) f13 or f14 codes are bad diodes in the blower, change out same. f09 code is a number of things why you could be getting this code. I have seen so many installs that you know for a fact that they were not set up with a gas analyzer(no hole in exhaust pipe). Inproper condensate run off in boiler,clogged drain,on rev#0 and rev #1 boilers the gasket in between the gas tube and the main front plate will also cause a f09 and f10 code. Also post purge should be set at100 sec to remove heat at blower wheel. High temp on boiler is no prime/sec piping on unit and or bad circulatory (dirt in impeller)I have done tec support on these units for many a year and have worked on hundreds of these boilers. This will work on the complete line of munchkin and peerless pinnacle line .

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Date created: 2012-12-16 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"GOOD boiler IF installed properly"
The Munchkin boilers I have installed for the last 12 years have had very few repair calls. The most notorious part for failure is the water pressure switch (pro code). If it is burning propane it must be cleaned yearly, On natural gas at least every two years. If you are losing the blower or 925 control it is caused by exhaust gas reversion or gasses rising out of the blower intake after the blower shuts off. I will let you in on a little secret - most of the high efficient boilers use the same internal parts. So bashing Munchkin when the only difference between it and Lochinvar Knight floor model,and many other brands is the controller. 99% of problems are caused by improper installation. Yeah I know YOU have heard this before but IT IS TRUE. Proper venting of ALL high efficient modulating boilers and furnaces is very critical. One of the inherent problems with Munchkin boilers is the lack of fall to the drain line - it has a bad habit of plugging up. When it does then you get F09's and F10's. plugged drain lines also destroys the front and back refractories. If the flame rod comes out with a reddish tint the boiler is holding water in the combustion chamber, If it comes out white you have exhaust gas reversion. I don't care what the install manual shows the exhaust pipe MUST be at least 18 inches above the intake pipe or 6 feet away down wind of the intake. Also call the distributor for HTP products in your area and find out who they recommend for service in your area. ( they give out my name here # These are good boilers. If you need to have the boiler replaced under warranty pay for the upgrade to the NEW ELITE FT. It is the new fire tube design that has been out for over three years now. #Triangle Tube was the first I believe# That is all that I install now. I don't have a problem with the older giononi style heat exchanger, I just believe that the new design fire tube boiler is far better. The new design still should be serviced yearly but it doesn't require yearly cleaning. I installed one of these 1 1/2 years ago and it cut their gas bills 40%. Usually savings is 25 to 30%. I have munchkins installed that the customer doesn't service until there is a problem. It usually takes 4 or 5 years to build up enough crud to cause a problem when the boiler is installed properly. I installed a Munchkin T80 and on purpose never took the cover off other than to install it. I never checked the combustion or any of the settings. All that I did was hang it on the wall, hook up the gas and water piping,hook up the electrical and thermostat wires, filled the system, purged the air and threw the power switch. This boiler ran with not one miss fire in three years. I know this because the computer hook up that I have shows the history ) After three years I notice the flame rod was getting dirty. This boiler had a layer of crud three inches wide and 1/4 inch deep inside on the bottom of the heat exchanger. did a before and after combustion analysis and I gained 1% by cleaning. This was my own boiler heating my in floor heated barn to 50* all winter for three winters. 0 Problems.

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Date created: 2012-12-15 Name: Chris
Location: Newton, MA

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Worked Fine"
I've had my boiler for 7 years. Error codes began 2 years now all is fine Here's the code to making these boilers sing... Make sure exhaust is 18" away from intake (acidic air will rot intake fan) Make sure co, co2 are adjusted properly clean combustion chamber 1x/year use a feeler gauge/vac/stiff nylon brush to really clear out carbon coffee-like grains hook a wet vac up to condensate drain then flush with ~10 gallons of water. After doing this the boiler has run like a top!

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Date created: 2012-11-18 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Andrew"
Andrew - f10 fault is from the fire being snuffed after the burner is lit. So in other words the boiler lit fine and then after a short time just went out. This is usually caused by water build up inside the heat exchanger. Did anyone flush the drain lines. If the boiler doesn't drain properly you will get F10'S. I suggest that you go back and read what I and others have written on this site.

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Date created: 2012-10-24 Name: Eric S.
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Great system!"
The unit has been great. Maintenance free since it was installed except for cleaning. upgraded it with an outdoor temperature sensor last year. Would put another one in without a hesitation. Would definitely use a different contractor though, American Services in nw Colorado won't get any more of my business!

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