Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

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Date created: 2012-01-27 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"BELTLINE HEATING"
Alan - It sounds to me like a bad blower. Call other companies for their price. How is your boiler vented? Is it concentric vented - If it is then change it so there is at least 18 inches vertical separation between the intake and the exhaust pipes. Exhaust gas recirculation will destroy the blower and other components. Steve

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Date created: 2012-01-27 Name: Alan Z.
Location: Anchorage, AK
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"I'm so lost!"
Purchased our condo 2.5 years ago. The first 1.5 years went great with our Munchkin t80m in place. This past winter we have been receiving f14 (fan runs at 130% for 60 seconds) codes all the time. It's weird, it would happen all the time when the temperature dropped below 5 degrees outside. Otherwise, it'll come and go below about 20 degrees. Our hot water tank and baseboard heating is fed off the machine. I called service on it a few days ago and he just went through the technical guide that I also have that came from the Munchkin website. 1. check the wires. He unplugged then plugged back in the wires to see if all connections were in tact. It was. He then said that I needed a new blower assembly motor because that is what the "guide" said. I asked him if he knew if that was the problem, he said "well, it looks fine but that is what the guide said to do next". Total loss of confidence i called them back the next day (yesterday) to speak with the manager. I conveyed to him that i hated throwing money at something that they didn't even know was broken. I was also quoted the blower motor costs without labor 800$. The Manager called the Munchkin rep in town to discuss with him my issue. The munchkin tech said that he believed that it was control board and not the motor. The manager told me that he will change out the control board for 400$ and that should fix the problem. If it doesn't then he'll take off 400$ of the cost of the blower motor since i already purchased the new control board. Today, new control board and the tech left. After 3 hours later, i got another code. (I also noticed that the temperature on the digital display panel moved a lot slower than before) It was F13 now! (fan runs too slow!!) New control board and now the blower motor doesn't run fast enough?! I wonder if it was even the motor to begin with. And also, when it ignites, it sounds weird. Don't know how to explain it but it just doesn't sound normal. If i know what that even sounds like. I'll call him again tomorrow, the labor work is under warranty. Any additional insight would be greatly appreciated and more than welcomed. Thank you!

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Date created: 2012-01-26 Name: Sheila
Location: Milford, PA
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Works fine when OTS works"
I replaced the Outdoor Temperature Sensor (OTS) - again - today. When the OTS works, the system works fine for me. But this is now my third OTS - what's the deal?? I hate waking up to a cold house and checking the d5 to see that the boiler thinks the outdoor temperature is 138 degrees when it's really only about 32 degrees (last year d5 showed 147 degrees, in reality it was only about 15 degrees, had to replace the ots). If Homer is still around, could he please let me know, if I disconnect the outside ots unit entirely and just wrap the outdoor wires with electrical tape, will the unit still work? And if so, what else would I need to do to make this happen? I don't want to have to replace the ots again in the future and if I really don't need it in the first place, then I'd rather not deal with it the next time it malfunctions. Thank you.

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Date created: 2012-01-26 Name: Gary Wandschneider
Location: Heber it

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Worst decision I ever made trusting Munchkin boilers"
Have two Munchkin boilers in my home in Utah. These boilers are now about 6 years old, and have never worked. I spend about $1000 each year trying to keep them running with no help from the company just more excuses. I would never recommend these to anyone unless you enjoy repair bills.

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Date created: 2012-01-25 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa, Mea Culpa"
Homer, you blew it. Please ignore my suggestion to pump into the expansion tank. What I meant to say and didn't was that you never-ever pump into an expansion tank. Funny things happen in the system when you do that, like pressure differences in the system that can drop to near 0 psi. So, you always pump away from an expansion tank. The tank connection should always be on the inlet side of the pump.--SHANE--My reasoning was this--Although the static pressure (when the boiler is not running) in the system is 12psi at all points in the system. If the pump is on the supply side nipple, pumping away from the boiler and the pressure switch and, also, the pump is pumping into the expansion tank, the dynamic pressure (the pressure created by the pump when the system is running)can drop system pressure in parts of the heating loop to less than 10 psi causing a pr0 fault code. If this pressure drop is marginal, near 10 psi at the pressure switch, you could have intermittent pr0 fault codes. This is especially probable if the pump is mismatched (too powerful). These are my random thoughts.

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Date created: 2012-01-24 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Shane Kairalla Revisited"
The easy way to tell if it is the pressure switch is to get some jumper cables at Radio Shack and jump the switch terminals while the wiring harness is connect to the switch. Do this at the switch when you have a pr0 fault code. If the boiler turns on it is either one of two things: low water in the system or faulty pressure switch. If the boiler doesn't turn on when you do this it is either one of two things: the harness is lacking continuity between the control board and switch or a faulty 925 control board. Replace with a 926 control board if replacement is necessary. Always do the cheapest and easiest thing first. If you have low water pressure in the system drain your expansion tank down and inflate the tank to 15 psi with air through the Schrader valve on the bottom of the tank under the red or blue cap. On a two story house the system pressure should be between 12-15 psi.---Lord help me, but I got to mention it. The boiler pump should be pumping into the 1 1/4" return brass nipple on the boiler and not pumping away from the supply brass nipple on the boiler. The supply is the 1 1/4" brass nipple that is closest to you when you are standing in front of the boiler. Lastly, always place the expansion tank connection to the system after the pump so that you pump into the expansion tank and not away from the expansion tank. Gasp, I done. pump

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Date created: 2012-01-20 Name: Shane kairalla
Location: Durango, co
Years owned: 5

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"5 years of hassle"
I have had this unit for 5 years and have had a service guy out many times. 3 times this year. I had to replace the pressure switch recently and today it's doing the same thing (error po) not enough pressure to stay on. I believe now it was never the pressure switch. He has "flushed" I think 5 times now . This fixes the issue but only temporarily. I think at this point I will trash this thing and start over with something better. I'd rather have something less efficient and more durable. PS: originally I had glycol in the radiators and was told switching to water would help -- it did not.

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Date created: 2012-01-19 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"P. Cruse"
I must have missed something - The Munchkin tech was out and told you that your boiler wasn't installed properly and it must be serious enough to shorten the life of your boiler and it is still a bad boiler?????? Doesn't COMMON sense say that the problem is NOT with the boiler but with the company that installed it. Those of you that post here need to read what those of us that try to help have written. Most of your problems would go away IF you would just do what has been suggested. I just went on another bad install on Monday - They also had constant expensive repairs. Major reversion. Still had the concentric vent termination and the cap was not installed properly. Third blower. Still need to reverse the water piping so that the water flows the right way through the boiler. (They didn't even have that right.)

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Date created: 2012-01-18 Name: P. Cruse
Location: S E Wisconsin
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Fed Up in Wisconsin"
Has not worked properly in the 7 years we have had this unit. At least 3 times per year we are calling for service since we have no hot water. The unit starts to make a loud sound like a motorboat then quits. Several years ago I finally called the rep without notifying my installer and when he came out he told us that something was installed improperly and was causing our problems. Also that this mistake would cause a decrease in longevity of the unit. When our contractor came to fix it he said that was not true. We have since gotten rid of the installer but may just skip the floor heating and buy a regular hot water heater. What a waste of money for this piece of junk.

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Date created: 2012-01-17 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Shannon Revisited"
Shannon, When you cleaned the hx, did you replace the burner tube gasket? (Read my earlier posts on f09) There are four bolts that hold the burner tube to the boiler plate inside the hx. Always use a new burner tube gasket Part # 7250p-070 when you clean the hx. I always use a 1/4" drive socket wrench and tighten the four bolts up good-n-tite. Shannon, I'm not supposed to tell you this, so I have to swear you to secrecy. So don't tell anyone. The number for Heat Transfer Products is 1-800-323-9651. Now, remember don't tell anyone.

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