Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

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Date created: 2012-01-30 Name: gary strandberg
Location: darby,mt
Years owned: 8

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"blower motor"
To alan: Anchorage, ak f13,f14 definitely blower motor on your t-80m. I have same unit,disgusting boilers, on my 4th blower motor in 8 years, this blower has a 3 year warranty on original blower only. Hope this helps. Gary

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Date created: 2012-01-30 Name: Sheila
Location: Milford, PA
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Another question"
It appears the water condensation line (for the 140m) is clogged - how do I clear it? I don't want to do anything to screw it up or make it worse. Thank you.

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Date created: 2012-01-28 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Alan Z. --Revisited Again"
Alan if your boiler is less than 3 years old, the blower is under warranty and should cost you nothing for a new one. The blower is matched to the model of your boiler, different models = different blowers. The control board is the same. The board is programed for your model. All replacement parts should match your model. The new blower should have a metal impeller (fan). If it is not the harness, I would have trusted the Fault Code and seriously considered the blower first. Look, maybe you have an older boiler that was install that has a plastic impeller and it has separated. To the wholesaler and distributor, it is first in first out, so maybe by mistake that didn't happen and you got an older boiler with a plastic impeller. If you replace the blower, look inside and see. HTP warranted the blower for 3 years. If it is a little over 3 years, sometimes HTP, out of customer consideration, will graciously replace the blower at no cost to you. You can call or have your boiler guy call and discuss this with the tech guys and customer service. They're good people.

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Date created: 2012-01-28 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Sheila -Revisited"
Sheila--Milford, PA--When you get the Vision 1 manual, pay close attention to the ots connections to the control board plug. Make sure that the Lt. Green ots wires are put into the correct holes on the plug and that the molex connectors are pushed into the plug in the right orientation (black marks on the molex connector facing up). Turn off the power to the boiler and open the cabinet and tug the ots wires outward from the plug to make sure that they are seated securely on the pins on the control board. I'm big on this electrical power polarity issue. Make sure your polarity is correct. See earlier posts. Do all these things. I would prefer using the Vision 1 ots as it saves on energy costs. If every thing suggested is by the book, look for a faulty control board. It is probably under warranty so be pronto about it.

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Date created: 2012-01-28 Name: BCS
Location: St. Paul, MN
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Water dripping from Flame Probe port"
About three weeks ago, my Munchkin started making an explosion sound just about every time it tried to start. Then f9 would appear. I'd hit reset. Then usually another explosion, maybe a start, but eventually f9 again. I noticed water on the floor in front of the Munchkin. I took the case off and saw water dripping from the Flame Rectifier Probe port. I did a condensate flush, and the water stopped flowing from the Probe port, but still I got the F9s and explosions. I called Service, who called the Munchkin help line or rep and was on hold for a long time. Two days, $680 (labor), and a new spark plug later, the Munchkin was up and running again. The help line's theory was the spark was hitting the gas in the wrong place (too far back?) causing the explosions, and a new spark plug was the answer. For a week or so, no problems. Starting four days ago, the Munchkin starting shutting down and giving off F10s, about two a day. If I hit reset, the M restarted. Following the manual, I have cleaned the Flame Rectifier Probe at least four times (each time the Probe has a rust film on it). Thinking the Probe must be bad, I've ordered a new Rectified Probe but it is not here yet. Today, after two F10s, resets, and restarts, we heard an explosion. I went to the Munchkin to find it leaking water on the floor around the Munchkin. As before, it was coming from the Probe port. I have shut the M down and taken the Probe out and felt inside the port. It is wet in there. I'll do another condensate flush, put the Probe back in, and see what happens. Does anyone (calling Homer!) have a clue why water is building up in the Rectified Probe area? Does it mean there is a crack in the M case? Help, please.

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Date created: 2012-01-28 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Alan Z. --Revisited"
Alan Z.-Anchorage, ak--- Electrical Polarity (the white wire is connected to the silver screw and the black wire is connected to the brass screw on the receptacle on your wall outlet and the connection to the boiler's white and black wires as well a the green wire is-- important. Service persons take for granted that the 110 volt wiring is correct, so they don't check it. Improper polarity can cause problems with the control board. Read earlier posts on polarity.

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Date created: 2012-01-28 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Gary Wandschneider--Sheila--Alan Z."
Gary Wandschneider--Heber UT---Gary, you can call Heat Transfer Products and talk to the Tech there about your problems. I can't imagine spending $1000 each year replacing parts, etc. and not having your boilers working properly. I doesn't make sense to me. You have an installation problem. Either you hire someone who's knowledgeable or you figure it out on your own. No matter which company's boiler you install if you have an installation error, that company's boiler is going to be affected. READ-"Modern Hydronic Heating" by John Siegenthaler, pe (Plumbing Engineer) and check your system installation against the book. ps- ignore the math unless you have had Advanced Algebra and Trig. Installing a low tech boiler is more forgiving if there are installation errors, a high tech boiler like the Munchkin isn'T.---- Sheila-Milford, PA---Sheila, first, replacing 3 Outdoor Temperature Sensors (ots) should tell you that your problem isn't the sensor. An ots is a temperature variable resistor that changes resistance with a change in temp. The ots should be mounted where it truly measures the outdoor temp., not in direct sunlight, not near a heat source which may effect the reading. Secondly, there is limit as to how long the connection wire from the boiler to the ots is, don't exceed this length. Wire has resistance which adds to the ots resistance. The connections should be good and tight at the boiler and ots. Make sure that the ots connection wire is the proper gauge 18 ga minimum and the wire leads are not grounded to each other. The ots establishes a Reset curve for the control board. The ots tell the board that the outdoor temp is such and such, so that the boiler only heat water up to a certain temp. necessary to overcome the loss of heat through the building envelope, thus saving money on heating costs. YES-you can disconnect it if you choose to, you just lose the reset function. In the Vision 1 manual is a synopsis of the Vision 1 function. There are 4 parameters that can be adjusted for the reset curve. Download the manual at HTProducts.com. Disconnect the ots at the boiler not the sensor.----Alan Z.-Anchorage, ak---$400 that seems like a good deal to me. This is an honest company that want to satisfy you. This is a temperature issue. You're pulling really cold air from outside into the boiler and it is effecting the expansion of the metal component in the boiler compartment. I don't think it is the control board or the blower. Look to the harness between the two. I would replace the harness first. Do the least expensive thing first. Check for exhaust reversion, any moisture or pitting of the aluminum components in the boiler, make sure the the intake air to the boiler is not near a dryer vent, etc. Read these posts about venting and harnesses. I don't know what weird sound like. Go though your boiler commissioning again-Set the co on the gas valve and check the supply gas pressure, pipe sizing, intake and exhaust venting, etc.

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Date created: 2012-01-27 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"BELTLINE HEATING"
Sheila - The ods is not a Munchkin part - other brands use the same sensor. Yes you can unhook the sensor wires at either end and put wire nuts on the wires. ( two ) But the boiler will run at maximum temperature. It is best to replace it. See if they will sell you a new sensor at their shop and if you can use a screwdriver you can change it yourself.

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Date created: 2012-01-27 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"BELTLINE HEATING"
Alan - It sounds to me like a bad blower. Call other companies for their price. How is your boiler vented? Is it concentric vented - If it is then change it so there is at least 18 inches vertical separation between the intake and the exhaust pipes. Exhaust gas recirculation will destroy the blower and other components. Steve

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Date created: 2012-01-27 Name: Alan Z.
Location: Anchorage, AK
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"I'm so lost!"
Purchased our condo 2.5 years ago. The first 1.5 years went great with our Munchkin t80m in place. This past winter we have been receiving f14 (fan runs at 130% for 60 seconds) codes all the time. It's weird, it would happen all the time when the temperature dropped below 5 degrees outside. Otherwise, it'll come and go below about 20 degrees. Our hot water tank and baseboard heating is fed off the machine. I called service on it a few days ago and he just went through the technical guide that I also have that came from the Munchkin website. 1. check the wires. He unplugged then plugged back in the wires to see if all connections were in tact. It was. He then said that I needed a new blower assembly motor because that is what the "guide" said. I asked him if he knew if that was the problem, he said "well, it looks fine but that is what the guide said to do next". Total loss of confidence i called them back the next day (yesterday) to speak with the manager. I conveyed to him that i hated throwing money at something that they didn't even know was broken. I was also quoted the blower motor costs without labor 800$. The Manager called the Munchkin rep in town to discuss with him my issue. The munchkin tech said that he believed that it was control board and not the motor. The manager told me that he will change out the control board for 400$ and that should fix the problem. If it doesn't then he'll take off 400$ of the cost of the blower motor since i already purchased the new control board. Today, new control board and the tech left. After 3 hours later, i got another code. (I also noticed that the temperature on the digital display panel moved a lot slower than before) It was F13 now! (fan runs too slow!!) New control board and now the blower motor doesn't run fast enough?! I wonder if it was even the motor to begin with. And also, when it ignites, it sounds weird. Don't know how to explain it but it just doesn't sound normal. If i know what that even sounds like. I'll call him again tomorrow, the labor work is under warranty. Any additional insight would be greatly appreciated and more than welcomed. Thank you!

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