Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

Read more about Heat Transfer Products boilers

Read reviews of other Boiler brands

Write a review

<< Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Next >>

---

Date created: 2012-03-06 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"M. Lottermoser--A Final Note!"
M. Lottermoser--Calgary, Alberta--Good advice from beltline HEATING--If you decide to take the advice (highly recommended), keep in mind that the combined (intake + exhaust) of straight pipe is 85'. Each fitting has a straight pipe equivalent that must be added to the straight pipe in your system and end up being not more than 85' total. If you are close to that figure, I would use a dwv (Drain Waste Vent) pvc 90 degree fitting rather than a sharp pvc 90 degree fitting as the resistance to flow is less in the dwv fitting. a pvc dwv 90 is not a true 90 degrees, it opens at 1/4" per foot and is a long sweep fitting (which means less resistance to flow). -----ALSO-----Your glyco in your system is nearing it life cycle at 7 years. You should have it tested and or think about replacement.---CLR Is ok, but I use Simple Green scale and lime remover as it's formula is like Rydlyme, which was recommended by htp.

---

---

Date created: 2012-03-05 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.
Years owned: 10

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"M. Lottermoser"
Hi - this proves just how good these boilers can be if they are even close to being installed properly. When you say concentric vented are you talking the inverted funnel type? If so can you remove the outer funnel and cut off the straight end? ( this will expose about 1 1/2 inches of the inner pipe) If you can do this then install an elbow then go up at least 18 inches and put a 45* elboe on the top with a stainless steel screen in it. You probably lost the 925 controller because of the exhaust gas reversion. The longer post purge is VERY important because it pushes the moist exhaust gasses out of the combustion chamber after the burner shuts off. If these gasses rise up and out of the burner air intake it will eventually damage the boiler. I reprogram all of the older boilers to the newest software version with the longer post purge. And NO you can't change that setting.

---

Date created: 2012-03-05 Name: Homer
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"GOOD JOB!"
M. Lottermoser--Calgary, Alberta---Good job--You're obviously talented. First: Don't change the post purge on your boiler. When the post purge occurs the boiler loop pump is not running so you are not circulating cold water into the heating system. The hx contains about 1 gallon of water, which is insignificant. It is more important to clear the combustion chamber of acidic moisture and gases. Second: It is always good to wear a dusk mask when handling the ceramic refractories. The washer and nut will compress the ceramic which is not a concern. Just tighten it enough to make sure that the nut is securely threaded on the post. Third: You need to replace the burner gasket and make sure that the burner tube is tightly secured by the four screws. Clean the mating surfaces to remove the old gasket material. Fourth: You do not need to replace the probes if they are in good shape, just clean them well. In earlier post I have said how I do it. When cleaning the hx I always remove the target refractory so as not to damage it. Do not use a brass brush to clean the hx, stainless steel or nylon only. Read these post on cleaning the hx. Fifth: Parts should be available well into the future as many of the parts that you may need are used on the newer models. Try KSCDirect.com for online parts. They are reasonably priced. If I were to stock parts, they would be--the burner gasket-refractories-water pressure switch--one water temperature sensor (in or out). The failure of the blower, gas valve depends on venting (gas reversion), see earlier posts, especially concentric venting. Lastly, if you live in an area with lighting, get a whole house surge protector and be sure and protect the boiler electronics with a computer grade (4200 joules) surge protector.

---

Date created: 2012-02-28 Name: M. Lottermoser
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"199M - First failure in 7 years"
199M with ssu-60 indirect water heater, two Heat Controller fan coils, glycol system 30%, concentric venting 8 feet above ground on 2 story wall. From reading all the previous posts, I seem to be extremely fortunate on two fronts. Proper installation and venting. No annual maintenance since it was installed 7 years ago (to my shame). The control card just failed, where the relays clicked on and off continuously in one second intervals. Replaced it with a 926 card but noticed the post purge of over a minute seems to cool the boiler output water by 10 F. from when the burner shuts off. Can the post purge be shortened ??? so as not to waste too much heat. The local distributor doesn't keep spare parts so it was going to take over 5 days to get the control card. Fortunately, the winter has been mild here and I was able to get one online from the US within 3 days. During those three days I cleaned the hx and unplugged the condensate drain. Fortunately the boiler was slightly tilted to the back to the drain so only the bottom third of the rear ceramic target wall was water damaged, dropped from the threaded stud but leaning against the rear boiler wall. The washer and nut was buried in the ceramic material. I replaced the rear ceramic target wall but am worried washer and nut will loosen off again. With annual maintenance, this may not be an issue. The drain was plugged solid with coffee ground type material a couple inches above the trap. It would slowly drip but was able to squeeze and tilt the trap downward where after 15 minutes of working it, the rinse water in the hx finally pushed the material out. Rinsed the hx with fresh water from a small pressure hose and was able to flush out all the solids. (7 years worth). It took a few sessions with CLR and nylon brush to clean the hx. But after two days it looks good as new. I cleaned the dust off the burner, cleaned the flame sense probe and ignitor probe. Noticed the burner gasket was slightly loose and will replace it shortly. Should I replace the probes as well, for peace of mind??? The outside sensor failed 5 years ago and was replaced. So in summary, I am very satisfied that the boiler worked fine without any annual maintenance for 7 years but I am very dissatisfied with lack of spare parts in a timely manner. Therefore, the neutral rating. Since the boiler has been manufacture discontinued in 2011, how long will spare parts be available?? Are any components being used in new boilers?? Any further suggestions on what spare parts I should buy and replace based on the 7 year track record?? What is the failure rate of burners, gas valves and blower motors after 7 years? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the previous posts. I will keep this boiler and properly maintain it. I would never have guessed that the installation and maintenance of these condensing boilers would be so critical. But that's progress, where the consumers have more due diligence to shoulder. Hopefully, that doesn't sound too bitter.

---

Date created: 2012-02-26 Name: Joe Martinelli
Location: Minnesota

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Piece of crap"
We have had a Munchkin high efficiency heater now for 6 years the unit is unreliable. If will shut off giving an f09 error once to twice a year. You can not safely leave your home for a extended period of time in the winter months knowing that the unit will shut down and pipes will freeze. The unit has to be periodically maintained. I would not recommend this unit or brand to anyone.

---

Date created: 2012-02-08 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"BUSH's FAULT"
In politics it seems that every thing bad was Bush's fault. So now the crawl space flooded and it cost $2200 to fix the boiler because it got flooded and that was the boilers fault????? You either have a bad pressure switch or more than likely the system pressure is low and guess what - the boiler doesn't control what the water pressure is in the system - So I guess if the kitchen sink backs up it's the MUNCHKIN's fault. Some of the complainers on this site have sent me pictures of their installed boilers and I will tell you they would be good for a laugh if it wasn't such a sad thing. I am sorry that you got screwed but you did go with the low bidder or you didn't do your research.

---

Date created: 2012-02-08 Name: K. Oborne
Location: GaNsevoort, NY
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Highly efficient at costing me money!"
POS for sure. Installation not the problem, it's the unit itself. Flooded crawl last year, replacement parts cost $2,200. Sitting here on Feb. 8, 2012 waiting for heating co. to fix. Have a pro error, which deals with pressure, so we will see if the installation is all that. Have a wood insert that can help with the heat so an overworked unit is not the issue either. Should be a rating even lower than very unsatisfied, something like...well I will keep it clean.

---

Date created: 2012-02-04 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.
Years owned: 10

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Gary Strandberg"
Just for your information the blowers are not a munchkin part. Those same blowers are used in almost every high efficiency boiler and water heater on the market today. If you are losing blowers it is because your boiler is not installed properly. Do you complainers not read what has been written by the installers here??? I feel sorry for the people that have been screwed by their installer but it doesn't matter what boiler you had installed if another brand had been installed instead of the Munchkin you would have been complaining about that brand instead. Don't you people do any research before you let someone install an expensive boiler into your house???? Did you get more than one quote. Did you look at the install manual at all while or after the boiler was installed??? Does your system look anything like the pictures in the book??? I will bet not. It is very important that the exhaust pipe be at least 18 inches above the intake and the water piping must look exactly like one of the drawings in the install manual.( there are some variations but must be installed by an expert in hydronics)

---

Date created: 2012-02-04 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Come On Dear Readers--Read The Posts"
Gary Strandberg--Darby,MT---You have an installation problem (probably concentric venting). Change your post purge on your boiler to 100 sec. "Use the Force, look to the venting, Luke".-----Sheila--Milford, PA--- Why do you think that the condensate line is clogged? Your boiler is only 2 years. old. It depends on where the blockage is. Is it in the boiler? Sheila, this is not something people can do easily for themselves. It involves dismantling the boiler to get to the hx. In 2 years, I would be surprised if you had a blockage. (Any f09 or f10 error codes?) However, for the layman, in an emergency, I would take an ear syringe, the rubber bulb type that you buy at the drugstore, an squirt some warm water into the hx through the condensate drain connected to the rear of the boiler and then suck the water out. Don't over do it with the water, just repeat the process until it is cleared. then get a qualified boiler guy to clean it correctly. If the clog is on the drain line outside of the boiler just flush it with water under pressure. Sheila, download the Vision 1 manual and read it.---Those of us that have experience, training and are knowledgeable can only point you dear readers in a certain direction. It is really up to your boiler guy and you to get to the source of your problems and fix them. htp makes great products and you shouldn't be experiencing the problem that are repeatedly reported on this site. ps--i just read the posts from the beginning to the present, do the same.

---

Date created: 2012-02-03 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"OOUGA-OOUGA--OOUGA--WARNING-WARNING---Munchkin's Shutting Down"
BCS--St. Paul, mn---say what??? Water dripping anywhere from the Munchkin is a serious, serious problem. That should be your first concern and be fixed, pronto. The source of the dripping water must be determined. Is water is coming from inside the boiler (not likely as the probe has a gasket on it) or from outside the boiler? How did you do a condensate flush? With an enema tube? I guess you can put a tube into the spark port and fill the combustion chamber with water, but that ain't how I do it. To do it right you need to remove the gas valve, blower and burner tube so that you can get into the combustion chamber and hose it out. When was the last time you did a major cleaning of your boiler? I find about 3yrs is max. First, all the spark igniter or rectifier probe is, is just a piece of wire in an insulator, unless the ceramic is cracked it doesn't need to be replaced. Just clean them with 200 grit wet & dry sandpaper (read my earlier posts on cleaning them and on adjusting the gap). The gap on the spark igniter must be at least the thickness of 2 quarters placed together. If the gap is too small, you will have intermittent ignitions and f09 codes. When the boiler start up, the control board starts the spark and then opens the gas valve and the gas flows into the burner tube and out in to the combustion chamber and ignites. If the spark doesn't spark because the moisture is grounding out the electricity to the probe or the gap is too small, ignition doesn't occur immediately, and the gas build up in the combustion chamber and when it does ignite, you get an explosion.---NOW--let's deal with the water. If it is condensate from combustion building up in the combustion chamber and grounding out the spark you need a major flush of the boiler trap to make sure the condensate flows freely. However, it you have a condensate neutralizer on you boiler, it may be plugged up, stopping the flow of condensate out of the boiler. Remove the tubing from the condensate outlet on the boiler and place it into a 5 gal pail and let the condensate drain into the bucket. You should get one to two gal of condensate a day in the bucket. In bad situations (plugged condensate drain) you can look into the viewing port and often see a waterline across the (back) target refractory. The other cause of water buildup is if the heat exchanger is leaking because of a crack, etc. Which is it? Boiler water or condensate? Test the dripping water from your spark port with a ph strip. If the ph is 3.0-4.0 (acidic)it is condensate. If the strip says 7.0 (neutral) or about that it is boiler water. No glycol systems just water systems only, please. If the water is coming from outside of the boiler look to the header, nipple connection or overflow valve. There was a problem with dripping nipples and pressure relief valve about the time you bought your boiler. These can be fixed. P.S. You can clean the probes until you are blue in the face and it won't make a difference if moisture is grounding out the spark or making it intermittent. As far as the spark probe being to far back that a new one on me, but what do I know. Good Luck. Perhaps, the Techs meant that the probe was to far away from the burner tube and should be moved closer to the tube? But it has been working fine for 7 yrs.

<< Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Next >>

The opinions expressed in these reviews are the opinions of consumers that submitted reviews to FurnaceCompare.com. They do not necessarily represent the opinions of FurnaceCompare.com.