Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

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Date created: 2012-11-26 Name: L Petrucci
Location: Gilford, NH

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Hate this thing!"
I'm reading other posts and forgive me if I haven't read all 16 pages, but it sounds like a few of you really know what you are doing, so I would love some advice. The boiler was installed in 2007. The first year we had no problems, but every year since it has broken. Every time, the blue plate has been corroded. This time, the control panel is not getting electricity. Every plumber that comes out tells us that the intake and outtake vents are not correct, but when I look at the manual, it looks like it was installed exactly like the diagram "sidewall venting with concentric vent kit." Obviously this is not working the way it should, and I would like to tell the plumber who originally installed it that it wasn't installed correctly, but it looks like it was. But I see other people posting here that it is much better to have the vents separate, and at least 18" apart. Can anyone give me advice as to how to proceed with this? This thing is driving me crazy.

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Date created: 2012-11-26 Name: Michaela
Location: MN

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"DO NOT BUY A MUNCHKIN"
Unless you want repair bills every single year do not buy a Munchkin for your home! The company that installed my Munchkin 1/2007 no longer sells them- what does that tell you?!

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Date created: 2012-11-18 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Andrew"
Andrew - f10 fault is from the fire being snuffed after the burner is lit. So in other words the boiler lit fine and then after a short time just went out. This is usually caused by water build up inside the heat exchanger. Did anyone flush the drain lines. If the boiler doesn't drain properly you will get F10'S. I suggest that you go back and read what I and others have written on this site.

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Date created: 2012-11-16 Name: Andrew
Location: Prescott, AZ

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Munchkin problems"
We purchased our house in 2007 and was initially impressed with the Munchkin. We've always had problems with the f09 error; I figured out how to take care of that problem. Now it's f10. I live in a small town where there are only a four people who know how to work on it. The first guy came out and did all the maintenance, $250. That night we still had f10 problems. He admitted he didn't know what to do and gave us a name of another business. That guy came out, said he fixed it, and gave me all the history on Munchkins and boilers, $250. Within an hour after he left, f10. I understand that there may be condensation. I have the third business coming out today.

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Date created: 2012-10-31 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Blower Racket"
J. C. Pernicka--Bellvue, Colorado---Yes, I can tell you from 40 years of experience: Installation is a big deal, especially with the new high efficiency boilers. If you have a Dungs gas valve look at the swirl plate and make sure it is not disintegrating, especially since you have replaced blowers before. It is a plastic plate between the gas valve and the blower that swirls the air and gas. If you have a Honeywell gas valve, make sure that you didn't suck something into the blower. Something may be unbalancing the impeller or the bearings maybe going. Lastly, you need to have a combustion analysis on the boiler. You may mistakenly believe that the blower is making the noise when it is "flashing" in the heat exchanger caused by the boiler pump not moving water through the hx fast enough. If so, clean the pump and or replace the cartridge. Munchkin is a good boiler and trouble free if installed correctly and maintained. (You do maintain the boiler and clean the combustion chamber?)--read the posts--

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Date created: 2012-10-24 Name: Eric S.
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Great system!"
The unit has been great. Maintenance free since it was installed except for cleaning. upgraded it with an outdoor temperature sensor last year. Would put another one in without a hesitation. Would definitely use a different contractor though, American Services in nw Colorado won't get any more of my business!

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Date created: 2012-10-17 Name: John
Location: Framingham, MA

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Working 7 years and still going strong..."
I had our Munchkin t50 installed in 2005. The installer was a real pro and did a great job...kept inlet and exhaust vents far apart so the intake fan/blower doesn't pull in the acidic exhaust and fail, very clean and professional job (some other plumbers and contractors have commented on the good design and quality fittings/components he used). Initially we used the same installer for cleanings but it cost too much so I changed to another heating company and I have them come every other year to clean the leads and heat exchanger...they tell me it is pretty clean so I think it may not be necessary for annual cleanings in my case. The system works fine so far...provides adequate hot water (we also have a SuperStor Ultra 45 Gal HW heater for a family of 7...1900 sq ft home) and heat. Haven't had a component fail in 7 years...seems from one reviewer that installing these correctly and with adequate sizing/cleaning is critical...not to mention an honest installer.

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Date created: 2012-10-16 Name: J. C. Pernicka
Location: Bellvue, Colorado

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Unreliable Junk"
Purchased house 7 years ago and was impressed with the presents of the Munchkin boiler and a very well done installation. So much for looks. The plastic impeller of the blower failed within 2 months the first time and continued to disintegrate (had four replaced with the same type that continued to fail). After the first one failed, redid the vent (although the original installation was done exactly per the manufactures specification) so that under no circumstances could the exhaust feed back into the air intake. Plastic continued to fail. It's always interesting to hear "the problem is the installation" when dealing with a poorly engineered component. Finally, after 4 years of continued problems associated with the design, I called http directly (it also helped when I informed them I run a military failure analysis lab) and they sent me a new blower with a metal impeller which has continued to operate for 2 years without falling apart. However, now we have a sever vibration when the blower clears the boiler just prior to ignition, that is if it starts. We can not leave our home in the winter for any period longer than 24 hours, since we never know when or if the boiler will operate. And, yes, we have had all the service calls recommended (averaging 4 per year) by factor authorized repair companies and have spent about twice the cost of the unit on labor. I would have been money ahead to pitch the unit and replace it with something "more reliable"?

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Date created: 2012-10-09 Name: Showerless JOE
Location: Amherst, MA

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Banging in Boiler"
Finally! - Some people who know these systems....I Bought an 80m in 2007, and have pretty good luck with it so far. I have a 2 zone system with dhw heating as well. Recently, the system has started banging shortly after the dhw cycle starts. My plumber said that the water is "flashing" in the boiler. The temperature shoots up very quickly and the burner modulates down and will eventlally shut off. Now, I'm not a hvac tech, but it seems that this would happen because the boiler is not getting enough water flow. Sure enough, I read on one post about how a bad pump could cause this. My question was I was wondering if anything else would cause it. Are there any tests that will narrow down the problem - thanks!!!

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Date created: 2012-10-09 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"No Code--No Lite"
Diana--Cheyenne W---Well, first read the posts. Sorry that you had so much trouble. You have a gas reversion problem because of faulty exhaust and intake installation. When did you do a major cleaning and tune-up? No Code--No Lite: No code tells me that the major components are ok. No lite tells me the following: No gas(propane tank empty or valve off?), no spark or hot surface ignitor not functioning, no combustion air. Those are the three things necessary for combustion. Check to see if you have gas. Check to see if you have spark or that the hot surface ignitor is bright red. Is the spark cable grounding out? Is the spark probe cracked and grounding out? This is what I think it is. You have a plugged condensate drain and the moisture in the combustion chamber is grounding out the spark. But I think that you would still get a code. Keypad plugged into the control board? Hope this helps.

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