Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

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Date created: 2011-11-25 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids MI.

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"GOOD boiler if installed properly"
99% of your problems are totally related to the way your boiler was installed. I install high efficient boilers for a living and have many Munchkin boilers installed that need no more than yearly maintenance. If they are not properly installed you will have a nightmare of problems. I installed a T80 in my 1512 square foot barn three years ago and did NOT dial it in or do anything other than hook up the water, gas, vent piping and electrical. This boiler has run flawlessly for three winters. I just recently checked the flame sense and found that it was getting close to lock out (F09). I did a before and after combustion analysis. There was a light coating of (coffee grounds) covering most of the heat exchanger. I cleaned this out with a vacuum and then brass wire brushed the heat exchanger then used a feeler gauge between the tubes. I then water washed the heat exchanger and flushed the drains. I found the flame rod was too far from the burner and the gap of the igniters was at 3/16 instead of 1/4 inch. The difference of the before and after was only 1% loss of efficiency with the water inlet and outlet temperatures the same on both tests. The only difference was the exhaust temperature was 5* higher in the dirty test due to the dirty heat exchanger. These boilers if installed properly will not be a problem. So ALL of you that are complaining need to have someone competent reinstall your boiler.

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Date created: 2011-07-12 Name: G STEF
Location: MD
Years owned: 3

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"WORST COMPANY TO EVER DEAL WITH!"
I had this installed and it is terrible. f9 codes all the time. That means no hot water because the pilot light wont light. Do not buy - they're crap.

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Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Blowers"
K Jaeckel - Your blower failed on the new boiler for the same reason it failed on the old one. OH and the heat exchanger failed for the same reason probably. Exhaust reversion WILL destroy the boiler.

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Date created: 2011-03-27 Name: John Blake
Location: Mpls/St. Paul
Years owned: 1

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Munchkin now Contender re-engineered and fixed"
Installed a Contender(used to be Munchkin) on Friday with my contractor. Heat on same day. Zero problems. Water quality can effect any HE boiler. Unqualified installations will negatively effect any boiler/furnace install. My contractors love the service/cost/quality balance they get from me. I have a direct dial to the HTP rep. for any questions/concerns. We have had zero problems with the Contender. Every install has many variables which create a custom situation and demand for custom installation. For instance a furnace needs 37 things to go right for it to work. Not that it created your issues , but find a quality installer to start with.

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Date created: 2011-03-19 Name: Dave G
Location: Tewksbury NJ

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Munchkin A OK!"
I am an plumbing contractor in NJ. I have personally installed almost two hundred Munchkin or Contender boilers made by Heat Transfer Products.In all the installs, I've had two minor issues that popped up in the first couple of weeks. One was a bad wire harness and the other and bad board. Other than that I've not had a single issue even if the homeowners don't perform the required service when they should. I have no doubt almost any issue can be traced back to an improperly installed boiler/system. In fact about 35% of my boiler work is repairing other contractors boiler installations. Dollar for dollar, HTP offers one of the best products on the market. I will continue to sell and install them until someone offers a better unit for the money.

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Date created: 2011-03-05 Name: Michael Bell
Location: Kenosha WI

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"I own 17 Munchkin boilers"
I own a 200 unit apartment complexand we use 17 Munchkin/ModCon boilers for central heat and domestic hot water. Our installations started in 2003. In the beginning, at around year three, we had a number of fault problems with the electronic controllers that seem to be completely eliminated with the upgrade to the 926 controller back in 2007. Also, as with all new technologies, the installers haad to learn the best way yo install. To me, the biggest problems were improper installation and the 925 controller. The new versions of the boilers are very good and I wouldn't consider anything else. Munchkin has continued to relentlessly improved their product.

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Date created: 2011-02-26 Name: Steve - BELTLINE HEATING
Location: Grand Rapids Mi

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Blame the boiler"
David problems - He now has a bad heat exchanger - Notice that the boiler is to blame for this. NOT that he has had constant problems with this boiler. could it be that the boiler is not properly Installed thus causing all of his problems. I will bet that If he sent me pictures of his install I would find many things wrong. If you are having constant service problems or constantly replacing parts the problem is NOT with the boiler but with the installation.

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Date created: 2011-02-12 Name: Steve - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Adrian"
Adrian - I will let you in on a little secret. The Munchkin boiler does let you know there is a problem - They are called error codes. But you have to be there when it happens to see them displayed. Last time I checked You always have to be in your car when the check engine light comes on to see it. If you were somewhere else while your car was driving itself - You wouldn't get a warning either. AGAIN - if you are loosing motors or electronics your boiler is not installed properly. Steve - Beltline Heating

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Date created: 2011-02-07 Name: Dan Acevedo
Location: Elmwood Park,NJ

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Good boiler"
Great boiler. Just needs to be set up properly. MUST perform a CO and CO2 adjustment and Pipe to Manufactures Specifications for proper operation.

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Date created: 2011-02-03 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Reputable Installer"
Geoff Marshall- Little Deer Isle, ME--I can't help you with the coffee grounds, but I would like to know. Perhaps, flakes from the corroded aluminum inside the blower housing building up on the HX. I do know that HTP recommends tilting the unit toward the rear. My condensate flow goes through a clear vinyl tube to a neutralizer, so I can visually see the condensate as it leaves the boiler. I have a meter that test the PH and it is around 3.5, less than 7.0 is acidic. The code requirement is a 3/4" minimum drain pipe for the condensate piping. I have never had a problem with the condensate drain (plugging and backing up). What you say about the fuel plenum is the source of your problems, I bet. on Revision 2 the post purge is 100 sec. to clear the combustion chamber. (see my other posts) As you stated the blower is under the HX on the NTI Trinity and the fuel plenum acts as a thermal trap (hot gases rise), not so with the Munchkins and can be the source of the destructive exhaust getting into your blower and cabinet as you stated. You can check the post purge on the blower (see my earlier posts. The post purge can be changed by software to 100 sec. (revision 2 setting). Your post confirms my thoughts about this. I would certainly increase the post purge on the blower. In ME it gets mighty cold in the winter and you are pulling cold air into the cabinet, it seems to me that the boiler when it is running would condition the air to a more moderate temperature. I think that I would run your boiler with the cabinet cover partially open in the winter as long as the air in the boiler room is not contaminated with chlorine, phosphates or hydrocarbons. I never thought about Silicone, they do make a copper impregnated high temp (800 degrees) silicone. However you have to wait 24 hrs for silicone to cure (the only draw back?). The thermistors are probably manufactured with a 1-5% tolerance rating, so they can vary. I was thinking that maybe a 1/2 watt fixed resister of the correct ohm-age might correct that to the true outside temp. connected inline with the sensor wire. I might try that myself. However the thermistor is not linear. Right now, my D5 of the Status Menu on my 140M is 40 deg and my outdoor weather station is reporting 34 deg (same sunless side of the house). You can correct your central heating curve to take this into account, too. Since the sensor is mounted on the side of the house, it could be reading heat from the house through the wall whereas the station sensor is mounted on the eaves away from the wall, which may account for the discrepancy. I don't know it all, although my wife says that I am a big know it all. So, it's good that the readers provide their knowledgeable input (edukation is a good thing). SO, do a CO analysis and increase the post purge on the blower. Boy, I always harping on this CO analysis thing.

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