Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers
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Location: Manhattan, KS
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"Worse purchase ever"
This boiler has so many problems I consider my heating and air guy one of my best friends. Be prepared to spend a lot of money yearly fixing the problems that occur.
Location: montgomeryville pa.
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"beware"
Installed by a registered plumber 13 years ago and have had repair problems every year. (with difficulty getting parts.) december 26th boiler failed again and block was cracked....satisfied? I think not, very bad choice! Beware check out available info, before purchasing.
Location: Oakland, Ca.
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"Munchkin are under sizing the gas line and venting"
Most issues around the Munchkin are under sizing the gas line and venting. Make sure that the venting line has been glued properly (this will destroy swirl plates as not gluing properly will allow gases to go back into the unit). Sidewall or roof venting is fine as long as there is nothing blocking the venting (so gases do not get sucked back into the venting).
Location: Grand Rapids MI.
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"GOOD boiler IF installed properly"
The Munchkin boilers I have installed for the last 12 years have had very few repair calls. The most notorious part for failure is the water pressure switch (pro code). If it is burning propane it must be cleaned yearly, On natural gas at least every two years. If you are losing the blower or 925 control it is caused by exhaust gas reversion or gasses rising out of the blower intake after the blower shuts off. I will let you in on a little secret - most of the high efficient boilers use the same internal parts. So bashing Munchkin when the only difference between it and Lochinvar Knight floor model,and many other brands is the controller. 99% of problems are caused by improper installation. Yeah I know YOU have heard this before but IT IS TRUE. Proper venting of ALL high efficient modulating boilers and furnaces is very critical. One of the inherent problems with Munchkin boilers is the lack of fall to the drain line - it has a bad habit of plugging up. When it does then you get F09's and F10's. plugged drain lines also destroys the front and back refractories. If the flame rod comes out with a reddish tint the boiler is holding water in the combustion chamber, If it comes out white you have exhaust gas reversion. I don't care what the install manual shows the exhaust pipe MUST be at least 18 inches above the intake pipe or 6 feet away down wind of the intake. Also call the distributor for HTP products in your area and find out who they recommend for service in your area. ( they give out my name here # These are good boilers. If you need to have the boiler replaced under warranty pay for the upgrade to the NEW ELITE FT. It is the new fire tube design that has been out for over three years now. #Triangle Tube was the first I believe# That is all that I install now. I don't have a problem with the older giononi style heat exchanger, I just believe that the new design fire tube boiler is far better. The new design still should be serviced yearly but it doesn't require yearly cleaning. I installed one of these 1 1/2 years ago and it cut their gas bills 40%. Usually savings is 25 to 30%. I have munchkins installed that the customer doesn't service until there is a problem. It usually takes 4 or 5 years to build up enough crud to cause a problem when the boiler is installed properly. I installed a Munchkin T80 and on purpose never took the cover off other than to install it. I never checked the combustion or any of the settings. All that I did was hang it on the wall, hook up the gas and water piping,hook up the electrical and thermostat wires, filled the system, purged the air and threw the power switch. This boiler ran with not one miss fire in three years. I know this because the computer hook up that I have shows the history ) After three years I notice the flame rod was getting dirty. This boiler had a layer of crud three inches wide and 1/4 inch deep inside on the bottom of the heat exchanger. did a before and after combustion analysis and I gained 1% by cleaning. This was my own boiler heating my in floor heated barn to 50* all winter for three winters. 0 Problems.
Location: Newton, MA
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Review:
"Worked Fine"
I've had my boiler for 7 years. Error codes began 2 years now all is fine Here's the code to making these boilers sing... Make sure exhaust is 18" away from intake (acidic air will rot intake fan) Make sure co, co2 are adjusted properly clean combustion chamber 1x/year use a feeler gauge/vac/stiff nylon brush to really clear out carbon coffee-like grains hook a wet vac up to condensate drain then flush with ~10 gallons of water. After doing this the boiler has run like a top!
Location: Glenwood MN
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"Junk product"
Thought I would save some money and went dual fuel with the Munchkin Contender 120 as the backup. It was well acclaimed by the installer. My mistake for being trustful and not doing more homework. Don't make the same mistake. There is absolutely no comfort that this unit will fire when we do off peak. There are dire consequences during a Minnesota winter. Any details on a class action suit?
Location: Reno, NV
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"Maintenance NIGHTMARE"
Almost like clockwork the boiler has problems twice a year costing nearly $500 each time. very poor quality and very poorly designed. This piece of equipment should never have been allowed to be on the market.
Location: Newburyport, MA
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"Don't Buy!"
We have replaced the blower and the electronics on our unit. Now it looks like we will need to spend even more to fix the latest issue. Pretty soon, we will have spent as much on keeping it running as we did to purchase it. When I called Munchkin, I was told "you can have efficiency or reliability". Wonderful. All the money we save on efficiency we get to spend on replacement parts. Crummy product, crummy company.
Location: Gilford, NH
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"Hate this thing!"
I'm reading other posts and forgive me if I haven't read all 16 pages, but it sounds like a few of you really know what you are doing, so I would love some advice. The boiler was installed in 2007. The first year we had no problems, but every year since it has broken. Every time, the blue plate has been corroded. This time, the control panel is not getting electricity. Every plumber that comes out tells us that the intake and outtake vents are not correct, but when I look at the manual, it looks like it was installed exactly like the diagram "sidewall venting with concentric vent kit." Obviously this is not working the way it should, and I would like to tell the plumber who originally installed it that it wasn't installed correctly, but it looks like it was. But I see other people posting here that it is much better to have the vents separate, and at least 18" apart. Can anyone give me advice as to how to proceed with this? This thing is driving me crazy.
Location: MN
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"DO NOT BUY A MUNCHKIN"
Unless you want repair bills every single year do not buy a Munchkin for your home! The company that installed my Munchkin 1/2007 no longer sells them- what does that tell you?!
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