Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

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Date created: 2011-04-22 Name: Rick
Location: Rockland Co NY
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Installed 2 Years Ago - No Problems"
Have had the boiler in operation a little over 2 years with an indirect hot water heater. Have had no problems with the boiler but a 2 leaks in the piping the day after the install that they had to fix and I made the installer replace a copper pipe used to drain the condensate to plastic. They told me at the 3 year service they will clean the inside of the unit and at 5 years change a gasket. I have a 5 year parts and labor warranty that was part of a home show special. The installer told me before he installed mine they had put in 20 units. The 1st service checks (I get 4 for free) were just looking over the unit and checking the codensate drain.

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Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
""A Cry In The Wilderness, Sgt. Preston to the Rescue" "Onward Huskies""
C. MacKenzie- NW20 110 15 W5--Catherine, Catherine, Catherine, what am I going to do with you? You cry for help, but provide no information.--I'm trying to hone in on your problem, but my clairvoyance only reaches to Calgary.---Being in the remote outback, you have few choices in agents to fix your boiler, I suspect. There are Fault Codes to help diagnose your problem. The Munchkin (unless it is a HA model) has two probes (electrodes). A spark ignitor probe and a rectifying probe. They both need to be cleaned. (see earlier posts) Hot surface ignitors DO NOT need to be cleaned---there are so many things that can cause a boiler not to fire, so a sequence of operations may be helpful. The foregoing is not exact.----The thermostat closes (calls for heat), signaling the control board to turn on the boiler. The control board checks the sensors, gas valve, and blower (electronics). If everything is ok it turns on the blower for a pre-purge of the combustion chamber and then initiates the spark or hot surface ignitor, then opens the gas valve and check for ignition through flame rectification. (4.1 Micro-amps) The boiler produces hot water for heat. When the thermostat is satisfied, it opens, and the boiler turns off. Anything disrupting this process will cause the boiler not to fire. For example: No gas present or wrong pressure--Wrong polarity on the 115 volt wiring--Dirty AC voltage sine wave (Harmonics on the AC voltage line)--No ground or intermittent ground (green wire)-- Current on the ground wire (green wire)--Thermostat or thermostat wiring open--Failed sensor or intermittent sensor--Wiring harness connections not making good contact--The blower negative pressure tube to the sensor leaking--The spark electrode gap is incorrect --Gas valve set too lean--Flue sensor over heated--Loose connection between the blower and gas valve--Plugged intake or exhaust vent or vent too long--Condensate not draining (water vapor build up in the combustion chamber--The air pressure sensor stuck closed--Loose burner tube--The 925 Control Board overheating (IC-6 ?)--Power surges or brownouts can damage the control board, has that happened?--Insufficient water pressure in the system----Catherine you get the picture. There is a diagnostic and solution for all of these. Catherine you need a Major Maintenance on your boiler if it is 4 yrs old and read the earlier posts for more information. Hope this helps.

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Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: Steven Whitbeck - BELTLINE HEATING

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Blowers"
K Jaeckel - Your blower failed on the new boiler for the same reason it failed on the old one. OH and the heat exchanger failed for the same reason probably. Exhaust reversion WILL destroy the boiler.

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Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: K. Jaeckel
Location: Manitowoc,Wi
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"K Jaeckel"
This Thing is a pc of CRAP. First one replaced just under the warranty wire due to failed hx. But not after replacing the hi priced inducer assembly 500.00 wholesale thank you very much.due to poorly designed sagging mtr mounts that were not replaceable. The inducer lasted 18 months on the new one. I wouldn't install another one of these if it were free. My back ground? Journeyman HVAC, NATE..... in fiels for 25years now doung tech support. Bla Bla Bla this is a very poor product with poor distribution period

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Date created: 2011-04-08 Name: C. MacKenzie
Location: NW20 110 15 W5
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"NOT RELIABLE !!!!!!"
When this unit is working it is a JOY !!! HOWEVER.... since having this unit installed it has gone out on an average of every 3 months...(totally unreliable)....I have "learned" how to take the flmae probe out, clean it, and put it back in.....crossing my fingers that it will ignite once again !!! I am a "Senior" living in a remote area of Northern Alberta. My unit was installed by a local agent. (They are called and visit more than most relatives) I also called KVC Industries and talked with Gerald....(Gerald, you were going to call me right back....that was in Feb./11....It is now April 8th. and guess what??? My furnace is out again....this time it will not fire up...after having cleaned the probe.... SOMEONE... PLEASE HELP !!!! Catherine

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Date created: 2011-04-03 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
""It's elementary, dear Watson"--Sherlock Holmes"
D Krueger--Richland Center, WI--I'd be pretty p*ssed off if my Munchkin performed like yours. I'd want to get to the source of the problem, which you obviously haven't from what you said about your repair history. "I suspect, dear Watson that you've encountered the dreaded Parts Replacer." In other words, "We will keep replacing parts till we fix the problem, no matter how much it costs." The problem is that a contractor gets a license and he thinks that makes him capable. It's worse when the home owner believes that, too. You have to make an informed judgment about who works on your boiler. (Choose Wisely) Any plumber worth his salt can solder two pipes together. (Although, I still have trouble with it and I've been at it for over 40 years. I figure in another 40 years I'll have it mastered.) To be capable, your contractor needs training, experience, and intelligence. (I know what you're thinking, a plumber and intelligence are a mutually exclusive thing.) He need intelligence to make a rational analysis of your problem and training to understand what he is applying his intelligence to: the Munchkin, specifically, how it functions. You want someone who has experience with Munchkins. You don't want someone gaining "practice time" on your dime. So ask the pertinent questions regarding training and experience. Also, ask, what's wrong and why you think so?--Why do I need this part and why did it fail?--You're his employer, you have a right to know, you hired him. After he removes the case cover, your question should be, "Are you going to connect your Laptop computer to the control board on the Munchkin?" Your contractor's answer should be, "that's the next thing, I was going to do." Any other response, beware. If he does say that, get down on your knees and kiss his feet, HALLELUJAH! you've just found the Holy Grail of boiler repairmen. You could ply him with lots of yummy cake and coffee. The Laptop can access the control board's memory which stores information on the Munchkin's performance and can change the boiler's parameters with the right software. In summary--you don't want a Parts Changer working on your boiler--unless you're JD Rockefeller.---Your combined vent length for 3" PVC is about 85'(intake added to exhaust) minus so many feet for each tee, 90 & 45 degree fitting in the your venting system. So, depending on the fittings (sharp 90 or Long Sweep 90) your existing combined vent length can be a lot shorter than 85'. Fittings reduce the allowable length of the combined vent.---YEARLY MAINTENANCE---The first thing that I do for yearly maintenance, and I have been doing a lot of them lately, is collect the money in advance, hahaha! I connect a laptop to the control board and read the history on the boiler. I want to know how long the boiler has been operating, when was the last maintenance, and what was done and whether the boiler needs a tune-up or a major cleaning. In a yearly maintenance, I assume a tune-up. I clean the electrodes, check the system piping configuration and look for anything out of the ordinary, replace the o-ring on the pressure/temperature gauge (an A111-HNBR o-ring replacement) an EPDM o-ring would work, too. I don't use NB o-rings as they don"t stand up to temperatures as well. The factory o-ring hardens from the temperature and water begins to drip from the connection in about 3 years. I run the boiler through its paces and check the rectification current and the high and low fan speeds while looking at the flame through the viewing port. I look at the target refractory for damage. I check the condensate drain for flow and if it has a neutralizer connected, I check the PH with a meter. I check the wiring harnesses. I look for signs of exhaust reversion and look at the outside venting terminations. There are other thing that I do, too, but this covers most of it. I can do this less than an hour at reasonable cost, which doesn't take food from the mouths of your children.---MAJOR MAINTENANCE---All of the above plus a deep cleaning of the HX (heat exchanger), replacing the burner gasket and tighten the four screws with a 1/4" socket wrench, good-n-tite. I always replace the burner gasket whether it needs it or not. It's kinda like, I take a shower once a month whether I need it of not. The burner gasket is cheap and I don't want a failure and have to do it, later. Not having a secure burner attachment affect the rectification current and can cause an F09 error code. I do a combustion analysis and check the boiler Hi and Low fire and efficiency. I find that a MAJOR MAINTENANCE needs on average (my experience) to be done every 3 years. It takes me about 3 hours to do one. It cost more. OK, so your kids will be eating porridge for a week, at least they'll be warm.---Keep a log on your boiler and give it to your boiler guy when he comes a knock'n.--- Please, read the other posts.

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Date created: 2011-04-01 Name: D Krueger
Location: Richland Center, WI
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"problems"
Had a Munchkin installed 4 years age in new construction in floor heat and hot water. Unit has failed 3 time most current costing $640.00 and this was with a break from plumbing contractor. Several parts were replaced,burner caskets, ignitor, gas valve. Munchkin rep came to house and determined that vent was to far away (it was within munchkin spec)reset some setting for venting and said it should work now.Said there should be yearly maintenance approx. cost $150 a year. I'am not happy with the munchkin and sorry I connected hot water system to it. I would not buy another Munchkin boiler

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Date created: 2011-03-27 Name: John Blake
Location: Mpls/St. Paul
Years owned: 1

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Munchkin now Contender re-engineered and fixed"
Installed a Contender(used to be Munchkin) on Friday with my contractor. Heat on same day. Zero problems. Water quality can effect any HE boiler. Unqualified installations will negatively effect any boiler/furnace install. My contractors love the service/cost/quality balance they get from me. I have a direct dial to the HTP rep. for any questions/concerns. We have had zero problems with the Contender. Every install has many variables which create a custom situation and demand for custom installation. For instance a furnace needs 37 things to go right for it to work. Not that it created your issues , but find a quality installer to start with.

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Date created: 2011-03-20 Name: john

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Garbare"
Thats why there isnt much of a warranty on those boilers buyer beware!!!! U cant buy your own parts because u need a boilers license.. in the long run your better off just buying a water heater and furnace>>cost me 1000 dollars to get it fixed 300 for the part and the rest labor F###K B#Tch

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Date created: 2011-03-19 Name: Dave G
Location: Tewksbury NJ

Satisfaction Rating:
Review:
"Munchkin A OK!"
I am an plumbing contractor in NJ. I have personally installed almost two hundred Munchkin or Contender boilers made by Heat Transfer Products.In all the installs, I've had two minor issues that popped up in the first couple of weeks. One was a bad wire harness and the other and bad board. Other than that I've not had a single issue even if the homeowners don't perform the required service when they should. I have no doubt almost any issue can be traced back to an improperly installed boiler/system. In fact about 35% of my boiler work is repairing other contractors boiler installations. Dollar for dollar, HTP offers one of the best products on the market. I will continue to sell and install them until someone offers a better unit for the money.

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