home
We speak HVAC so you don't have to
CONNECT with us!

our tools and detailed reports
can help you choose the best
furnace, boiler, heat pump or
central air conditioner.

Consumer Reviews of Heat Transfer Products boilers

Popularity:
#23  of 45 brands of boilers

21% of customers recommend
2 of 5 stars 316 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    58
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    10
  • Neutral
    93
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    9
  • Very Unsatisfied
    146

Read more about Heat Transfer Products boilers

Read reviews of other Boiler brands

Write a review

Reviews by Series

Current Series
1234567891011121314151617181920Next >>

Date created: 2014-05-23 Name: Sprog Archer
Location: Boston, MA

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"Rock Solid (if you take proper care)"
Installed myself: 8yrs of flawless operation... Here's the key: the vent needs to be correct distance (otherwise the unit sucks up combustion). The heat exchanger needs to be cleaned (I use a depth gauge to clean out the crud). Flush the combustion chamber with water to clean out. Clean the controller circuit board with compressed air to prevent shorts from dust. I perform this service myself every other year in ~30min. Less effort than car maintenance.



Date created: 2014-05-10 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"FO9 error code"
Tutti-- Wisconsin---You should not get any leaking. You need to determine the source of the leak. When you have a leak, fresh water comes into the boiler, carrying oxygen into the system. Oxygen decomposes any iron in your system piping. Boilers are not supposed to leak. As for the f09 error code, read the posts as it is very well covered by my "Homer" posts. You do need to clean your boiler at least every 3 years. That means doing more than just cleaning the probes (which should be part of the yearly inspection). The built-in condensation trap need to be cleaned so that the condensate that is produced during combustion can leave the boiler's combustion chamber. You need a boiler guy (hydronics) to check out the leak as there is so many places that leaks can occur. Put a glass under the overflow pipe (pressure relief valve, prv) and see if it is coming from there. If the leak is coming from the prv, check system pressure on the gauge. It should be about 12-15 psi cold and when hot less than 20 psi. Also, if the expansion tank is water logged, pressure in the system can exceed 30 psi and water will be forced out the prv. Any of these caused requires replacing the prv when repairs are made. Read the posts, folks!


Date created: 2014-03-07 Name: J Roberts
Location: richmond, va

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"My 2 are good after 8 and 6 years"
Have had no probs with mine. One at each house I own in Richmond va.


Date created: 2014-03-02 Name: tutti
Location: Wisconsin

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"11 years no problems- until now"
Not a problem for 11 years. Now we are getting f09 codes. We have cleaned both probes and works for a while. Now I see there is water in the cabinet and on the floor around the munchkin-- any ideas where the water would be coming from? Should I be concerned or can it wait until this miserable winter is over?


Date created: 2014-03-02 Name: Larry P
Location: Wisconsin

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"My Munchkin rocks"
My 140m (natural gas) has been running flawlessly for seven years. Space heating and domestic hot water. I've cleaned it twice. I maintain commercial HVAC systems for a living... wish they ran as well. Now maybe I just got a good one. I'm reading all the gripes but my experience has been great. I'm not an installer, but I did install the Munchkin myself. I followed HTP's instructions. (Yes, I should analyze the combustion gas one day)


Date created: 2014-03-01 Name: D Donarski
Location: Minong, WI

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Internal Leak Warranty Worthless"
I installed a Munchkin 140 mlp in October of 2006 after being told it was an excellent choice. The cost of the boiler and installation was $3846. Now it has developed an internal leak. Munchkin states it has a prorated 12yr leak warranty. Being in it's 8th year, I was told it was 75% covered by warranty. By the time the tacked on installation, shipping and processing fees plus a huge increase in the cost of the boiler, replacing it under warranty would cost me $4700. This warranty is worthless!


Date created: 2013-12-15 Name: Plymouth Resident
Location: South Shore

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"To0 costly to maintain"
I purchased the boiler in October of 2007. It is a Munchkin Contender Propane 120m. It is extremely costly to have it serviced once a year. There is no one on the South Shore that can service this product. I called the factory and they told me to call Emerson Swan Company. They want $500.00 to come and clean/tune it. In 4 years of them servicing my boiler, I could purchase a brand new one. The boiler is extremely noisy too when it clears the exhaust and then fires the boiler. This unit is located in my utility room, not the basement. So it wakes everyone up all the time.


Date created: 2013-12-04 Name: Homer

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"F03--F05 Errors"
Randy engel--wichita ks---I don't know what model boiler you have or what size.----F03--Boiler Water Return Thermister. Check plug and wiring to the thermister. Unplug the control board plugs and plug back in securely. I suppose that a thermister reading a lower water temperature than the boiler is producing may cause the boiler water to be 230 degrees and flashing to occur in the hx? I have to think that one thru. If you still have the f03 error, replace the thermister.You may have to drain water out of the boiler to do this.----F05--The supply water temperature at or over 230 degrees F. If the boiler jumps or shakes with a banging sound, you have a water flow thru the boiler problem.(insufficient flow with flashing in the hx) If this is the reason, then you are trashing the boiler when it is a problem not related to the boiler. The boiler is just doing it's job of shutting down and notifying you of a problem. Other Possibilities: You have a plugged heat exchanger (HX), unlikely. You have an isolation valve closed or partly closed, possible. You have pump that is not rotating because it is not energized, not installed with the flow, or not rotating because the rotor is binding because of dirt, most likely. If the boiler is above radiation there could be air in the line somewhere, unlikely. If the boiler pump is a Taco pump the cartridge is most likely plugged with magnetite. Replace the cartridge. If a Grundfos pump take apart and clean with CLR or Lime scale remover. A professional should do the work. Out of the Installation Manual: "F03--Interrupted or shorted return thermister--This code appears if the return thermister located on the Munchkin Outlet manifold has been interrupted or shorted. Remedy-- Check the wiring connection and connectors on the thermister. If the connections are ok, hit the S4 Reset button. If the unit locks out again, replace the return thermister."


Date created: 2013-11-15 Name: randy engel
Location: wichita ks

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Worst Piece of Junk, Ever!"
I have never found any product so finicky. So truly unfit for sale. It maybe a great gift for your worst enemy. However, the repercussions may be lethal. I am having F05 and F03 codes? Any help would be nice. Tech support is overwhelmed and not calling back.


Date created: 2013-10-14 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"F09 Code Again"
Kevin B.-Northern Michigan--Kevin F09 Error Code is the easiest code to fix. Read the posts as there is so much info on the F09 Error Code that I'm tired writing about it. Without a flame sense (it is called flame rectification), the boiler will turn off. You can understand that if there wasn't any flame in the combustion chamber, raw gas would fill the whole system with possible explosive results. The control board sends a minute AC current through the flame which changes it from AC to DC current and the control board looks for that DC current. The control board keeps the gas valve open and everything else operating if it finds it. If that DC current is missing or much smaller than 4 microamps, the control board doesn't see a flame and shuts everything down for safety reasons. The path that this AC current takes is from the control board, to the rectifier probe, thru the flame to the burner tube, thru the 4 bolts holding the burner tube, to the boiler front plate to the boiler front plate to ground, to the control board. This is called a circuit. Anything that interrupts the flow thru this circuit will cause an F09 Error Code. The usual culprit is the 4 bolts holding the burner tube to the boiler plate. (They get loose) Replace the burner tube gasket (7250p- 070), clean the gasket surfaces first, cinch down the 4 bolts good-n-tight. Read the posts to see how I clean the probes. Be careful of the probe gaskets and the refractories as they are very fragile.

1234567891011121314151617181920Next >>

The opinions expressed in these reviews are the opinions of consumers that submitted reviews to FurnaceCompare.com. They do not necessarily represent the opinions of FurnaceCompare.com.

Copyright 2002 - 2014 furnacecompare.com