Heat Transfer Products Munchkin R1 (Revision 1) Boiler
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Manufactured by Heat Transfer Products Inc. (HTP), the Munchkin R1 is a residential ultra-efficiency boiler offering up to 95.1 percent AFUE. This Energy Star-certified series has five models ranging in heating capacities from 50,000 to 199,000 BTUs.
Available as a wall- or floor-mounted unit, the R1 has a lightweight design geared toward providing easy installation, as well as zero clearance to combustibles. The R1 also offers four different venting options—vertical, unbalanced, sidewall and concentric—for flexible installation and airflow.
Indirect water heater integration, a durable 316L stainless steel heat exchanger and an outdoor reset that detects temperature changes outside and adjusts the interior temperature accordingly are additional features of this unit.
Consumer Reviews of the Heat Transfer Products Munchkin R1 (Revision 1)
Date created: 2013-05-17
Name: Geoff Marshall
Location: Little Deer Isle, ME
Steve@ Beltline you need to adopt Homer's 'neutral' rating. Your 'very satisfied' postings are skewing the true satisfaction results regarding this product.
Date created: 2013-04-30
Name: Darshan Suri
Location: North Syracuse, NY
I have 3 years old boiler. During first year, it took the supplier a week to fix the leak. Even manufacturer's rep had to come to supervise the fix. Again in December 1212 leak is developed and I have spent $780.00 but leak is not fixed. Manufacturer's rep came and examine the boiler and said nothing is wrong with the unit. Need replacement of vent collar. The local company who supplied and installed is asking $875 plus tax. The boiler unit itself is under 12 years warranty. Any one is welcome to rescue me from these butchers or I should throw the unit and get some thing which is more reliable and average technician may be able to handle it.
Date created: 2013-04-10
Location: Cincinnati ohio
"heat transfer products"
I'm not shocked to read some of these poor reviews. Unfortunately I at one point lacked the ability to install these units correctly, which caused me a lot of issues. I pretty much gave up on the boiler. A different company convinced me to go to the training facility at heat transfer. Since then I have put in over 200 of their boilers with only 2 small issues. If installed correctly, it is by far the best boiler you can buy! I have made tons of money, thanks to this boiler. I strongly recommend it to anyone who wants to save on energy bills. I wish I could help all who have these boilers. People, who don't know how to install these, should stop. There only hurting the customer. Good luck to all, try to call a Rep for heat transfer and find a qualified installer. Thanks.
Date created: 2013-04-03
Location: Northern Utah
"Buy a Heat Transfer product and the nightmare will begin"
In the past ten years I've had three Voyagers and two Munchkins installed. These were all Heat Transfer Product, “state of the art”, high efficiency boilers. What a nightmare! These products are unreliable, poorly designed and extremely frustrating. The customer support is horrible and I believe the warranty is useless. I would recommend anyone looking for a boiler to do anything but buy a Heat Transfer Product. The sad thing is that this company is a terrible example of “Made in America” quality.
Date created: 2013-01-31
Location: Plainfield NJ
"A Plumber's Cash Cow"
Reading this collection of comments suggests to me that the Munchkin boiler product has been an expensive nightmare for those of us whose day job does not involve having a technical plumber's certification. a quality product should not require me to have the Fault Code Book taped to my utility room wall and it should not create an annuity sufficient for the intaller to send his kid to college.
Date created: 2013-01-28
Name: J Brown
Location: Menominee, MI
"Homer, Steven…. huge thank you !!"
With any luck, problem has been resolved. If this is the case (and I believe it is), your comments have been *spot-on*. Unit has been functioning flawlessly for the past 72 hours. (Nice to have it back - I owe you guys a beer). My issue, which I also believe is the cause of many other customer review complaints, insufficient grounding of the burner to the faceplate cover. Your comments and additional research led to better understanding of the rectifier probe (flame sensor) circuit. The controller provides an AC-current signal to the rectifier probe. Dissimilar metal structure of the rectifier probe converts the AC- current into a DC-current, which is conducted to ground, but only if a flame is present. Ionic particles within the flame atmosphere provide electrical continuity, completing the closed circuit to ground via the burner. Of course, if the burner is not properly fastened (grounded) to the faceplate (via screws), the electrical circuit remains open, causing unit malfunction. Through time (ten years, in my case), the refractory material between the burner and faceplate becomes slightly deformed, which allows an air gap and particulate contamination to interfere with proper grounding of the burner. Resolving this issue, each burn cycle, I now have a solid 3 to 5 microamp connection (relative to flame size). Your maintenance procedure to change the burner gasket properly reseats the burner and screw assembly, which reinsures a grounded connection. Proper grounding of the burner seems to also resolved my issue of the rumbling vibration during start-up… but, I still have the occasional French- horn entertainment during low modulation, which I can live with (we simply dance to the music). I think this is a venture issue (original design), being incompatible with the new aluminum impeller (blower assy), causing turbulent air flow. Steven, yes, I use a thin ss strip to gently carefully clean out particulate between hx coil loops, thanks. (I hope you guys are getting a commission from helping others… thanks again for your advice. ps: I installed my boiler also, but don’t tell htp).
Date created: 2013-01-26
Nothing but trouble
Date created: 2013-01-25
John Berry--Haverhill MA---Yes, Hi Tech is complicated and does need regular attention, look at today's automobiles. Yes, it was an oversight on the part of htp concerning exhaust and intake issues, especially concentric venting. Experience is a wise and harsh teacher. Yes, natural gas varies across the country as to BTUs per cubic foot of gas and purity. This is why you need a combustion analysis done. The proper fix is not duct tape (duct tape is like The Force, it has a light side and a dark side and holds the universe together). The paper gasket has been replaced with a cork gasket with adhesive on one side that sticks to the blower intake. The Honeywell gas valve has a brass vent the dia of a pencil projecting out of the valve toward the rear of the cabinet. On the 80m this vent can touch the back of the cabinet and prevent proper venting to the gas valve (bad). Drill a 3/8" hole in the rear of the cabinet where the vent touches so as to allow air to the gas valve thru the vent's hole. The spark gap need to be 1/4" (see my earlier posts as to why this is so) Too small a gap will cause loud (explosive) ignitions or no ignition with a smell of gas. The Negative Pressure Switch tell the controller that the blower is running and pulling negative pressure (a safety feature). If stuck open you will never get ignition. The rubber diaphragm in the N.P. Switch ages and gets holes in it and leaks, keeping the micro switch in the open position. The hose connecting the Neg. Pressure switch to the blower must not be leaking either. The N.P. Switch has nothing to do with loud retorts. Loud retort is a delayed ignition commensurate with a gas build up in the combustion chamber that finally ignites. (see spark probe gap posts). As to Munchkin parts, Check the net. Parts can be procured cheaper (see KSCDirect.com for example. That's a wrap!
Date created: 2013-01-23
Name: Rich O
Location: mahwah nj
First problem is many a installer will over size these boilers(to big for house) f13 or f14 codes are bad diodes in the blower, change out same. f09 code is a number of things why you could be getting this code. I have seen so many installs that you know for a fact that they were not set up with a gas analyzer(no hole in exhaust pipe). Inproper condensate run off in boiler,clogged drain,on rev#0 and rev #1 boilers the gasket in between the gas tube and the main front plate will also cause a f09 and f10 code. Also post purge should be set at100 sec to remove heat at blower wheel. High temp on boiler is no prime/sec piping on unit and or bad circulatory (dirt in impeller)I have done tec support on these units for many a year and have worked on hundreds of these boilers. This will work on the complete line of munchkin and peerless pinnacle line .
Date created: 2013-01-21
Name: J Brown
Location: Menominee, MI
"Sweet machine, until .... ten years later"
*Homer in Nevada, I request your opinion* I have read most all related comments of this website, and a few of my issues are comparable. A Munchkin 140M was installed and commissioned Feb 2003 (yes, 10 years ago; it is one of the first models). Until recently, only one very minor issue since install; unit would trip due to the infamous 'no-flame' indication. This complete shut-down occurred only about five times throughout the past 10 years. However, about 30% of ignition starts required more than one attempt. About five weeks ago, the plastic impeller failed (blower motor). Receipt of a new motor assembly, I was surprised to see the metal impeller (aluminum instead of plastic), but simply attributed the change an improved design. I understand the issues involving exhaust-reversion, and feel this concept is far from my list of troubles. After the new blower install, many different issues have started. The occasional rumbling, loud combustion vibration during ignition. Never before has this unit experienced this problem. Another complete meticulous cleaning, inspection, and reassembly of the firebox seems to have resolved this issue. (Intake and exhaust lines are clear). The occasional 'French-horn whistle' during periods of low idle, but only at one specific modulation speed. Again, never before, this unit experienced. Fortunately, the problem frequency is not maintained for more than a few seconds during any particular time period. A separate post suggests incorrect alignment of the gas valve venturi against the blower housing could be the cause. This has been checked, and problem remains. Most puzzling, and most likely directly related to the previous issue (of 10-year history): Erratic rectifier current causes frequent unit shut-down due to 'no-flame' indication. A few weeks of trouble-shooting led to the idea of monitoring the rectifier current (via multimeter). At no time (observed) has the ignition actually failed. Each (observed) start attempt, unit pre-purges and ignites normally; however, only seconds later, the control relay closes the gas valve, causing a restart attempt. Four attempts, the unit trips (as it should). During the past few weeks, the rectifier current has been closely monitored, and found to be very inconsistent, often averaging less than 0.7 microamps, leading to the four-attempt shut-down. However, occasionally, it is rock solid between 1 and 5 microamps, respective to flame size, and the unit operates normally (until the low-idle French-horn entertainment begins). Often cleaned, the rectifier probe is only a symptom, and not the problem; however, an occasional swap between the original and a new probe can provide for a solid ignition and operation cycle. Often, the old probe provides smoother operation than the new probe. One of the posts identify the need to change the burner can gasket (4-screws), and also indicates that an unsecure 'burner-assembly' could interfere with the rectifier current. My question: What is the need to remove the burner-assy from the faceplate? All the years of this unit operating normally, the burner-assy has never been disassembled from the faceplate, but has been cleaned and inspected. This unit has been a very sweet machine for a long time, but this 'blower-motor induced bug' has caused it to be very unreliable at a time of most need. I have sent a 'help-request' to HTP (Heat Transfer Products)... but, no reply. Suggestions are most welcome and appreciated.
Date created: 2013-01-09
Name: M Thompson
Location: Vancouver BC
Crappy boiler, required lots of repairs and was very unreliable. At the 5 year mark I finally had enough and replaced it.
Date created: 2013-01-08
Name: John Berry
Location: Haverhill MA
"Hi tech shouldn't mean needs frequent attention"
I have had my Munchkin 80m for 12 years. I am fortunate that when I installed it, the exhaust is 18” from the intake and downwind. The instructions didn’t warn about sucking in some exhaust could shorten the life of your system! It seems more a concern to minimize pressure differential. I was fortunate in that respect, and having opened the burner chamber up for the first time, it didn’t appear to even need cleaning! Maybe I have particularly clean Natural gas! The 2 of the 3 problems I have had, haven’t been mentioned here: 1. The Honeywell gas valve connector is quite loose fitting and would become disconnected. I ran a piece of duct tape around the valve to secure it and had no further problems.2. No flame lockout. I tried reducing the spark gap, which changed it from intermittent to constant, so I increased it and didn’t see the problem again. Could be related to #33. The system would lockout with “air pressure switch stuck open” and it was reported that the unit produced loud retorts. The problem became more frequent, but the air diaphragm switch measured fine. I replaced it since it is easy ($82!!!) No improvement. The boiler would run until the return warmed up and the blower throttled back, then lockout with that error. If the controller is bad, the upgrade is $730!!!!! Lots of profit to spread around on that one! As this forum made it seem commonplace to disassemble the valve / blower / assembly until, I dug in. From hints here, I realized to take the whole thing out as a unit and that the 4 screws connecting the gas valve to the gas pipe are meant to be disconnected for this. Piece of cake! The fan blade (plastic) looks good, there is no swirl plate, but 2 paper caskets between the blower, adapter block and adapter block to channel are blown open at the narrow edge. I used hi temp silicone sealant (red) in place of the gaskets. Without the paper (and maybe with it!) the screws bottom before the blower is snug. You need washers or shorter screws. Quick clean and rinse, reassemble, runs fine. I’m concerned that I still may find that the Honeywell regulator isn’t always shutting off properly, because I can’t explain why the unit would fire off with a bang.I Called the tech line 1/4/2013 but the only suggestion was to see if the fault changes if the air switch input is shorted. I know troubleshooting is step by step, but they should have a good flow chart of all the possible problems. Another clue I gave was “I smell some gas when the unit locks out”. I’m sure that was because the mixture leaking out the gasket breaks was no longer being recirculated, so it drifted to my nose!
Date created: 2013-01-07
Location: Los Altos, CA
"Had three small gas explosions"
Installed 11 years ago by licensed contractor. Have had problems every year after first five years. Early problems with pressure switches. On New Years had Ignition Fault. For unknown reasons, had gas build up in chanber and lead to three small independent explosions before found out what was happening and unplugged everything. First explosion blew off the exhaust air duct. Fortunately no fire. Service disassembled boiler and cleaned completely. I keep the Munchkin Boiler Fault led Code posted for ready reference at all times. Working again but scared of another explosion. May have to replace entire system.
Date created: 2013-01-06
Location: Plainfield NJ
"Too Many Faults - Too much money"
We had our Munchkin professionally installed by a very good plumber (certified Munchkin installer) in August 2008. The unit has had annual cleaning and servicing by the same Basking Ridge nj installer. We have had Faults 9, 10, 11 & 13 periodically causing regular maintenance expenses. This past October we had to have the blower motor replaced - one year after warranty expiration - at a cost equal to 10% of the original purchase and installation price. Then another series of faults. Installer said that he has never needed to replace blower motor and that we were merely unlucky. To me, when there is this pattern of faults and a high cost parts replacement it is not a question of luck, rather, it is a question of installation quality, product quality or some combination. We bought the unit on the basis of its purported efficiency...trust me, whatever value we saved on energy expenses has been eaten up by repair and maintenance expenses...therefore, the efficiency claim must be weighed against likely overall expensive cost. Both the Munchkin and installer have proven equally disappointing.
Date created: 2012-12-27
Name: ronald bennett
Location: montgomeryville pa.
Installed by a registered plumber 13 years ago and have had repair problems every year. (with difficulty getting parts.) december 26th boiler failed again and block was cracked....satisfied? I think not, very bad choice! Beware check out available info, before purchasing.
Date created: 2012-12-15
Location: Newton, MA
I've had my boiler for 7 years. Error codes began 2 years now all is fine Here's the code to making these boilers sing... Make sure exhaust is 18" away from intake (acidic air will rot intake fan) Make sure co, co2 are adjusted properly clean combustion chamber 1x/year use a feeler gauge/vac/stiff nylon brush to really clear out carbon coffee-like grains hook a wet vac up to condensate drain then flush with ~10 gallons of water. After doing this the boiler has run like a top!
Date created: 2012-12-09
Name: J Gallegos
Location: Reno, NV
Almost like clockwork the boiler has problems twice a year costing nearly $500 each time. very poor quality and very poorly designed. This piece of equipment should never have been allowed to be on the market.
Date created: 2012-11-16
Location: Prescott, AZ
We purchased our house in 2007 and was initially impressed with the Munchkin. We've always had problems with the f09 error; I figured out how to take care of that problem. Now it's f10. I live in a small town where there are only a four people who know how to work on it. The first guy came out and did all the maintenance, $250. That night we still had f10 problems. He admitted he didn't know what to do and gave us a name of another business. That guy came out, said he fixed it, and gave me all the history on Munchkins and boilers, $250. Within an hour after he left, f10. I understand that there may be condensation. I have the third business coming out today.
Date created: 2012-10-24
Name: Eric S.
Location: Fort Collins, CO
The unit has been great. Maintenance free since it was installed except for cleaning. upgraded it with an outdoor temperature sensor last year. Would put another one in without a hesitation. Would definitely use a different contractor though, American Services in nw Colorado won't get any more of my business!
Date created: 2012-10-16
Name: J. C. Pernicka
Location: Bellvue, Colorado
Purchased house 7 years ago and was impressed with the presents of the Munchkin boiler and a very well done installation. So much for looks. The plastic impeller of the blower failed within 2 months the first time and continued to disintegrate (had four replaced with the same type that continued to fail). After the first one failed, redid the vent (although the original installation was done exactly per the manufactures specification) so that under no circumstances could the exhaust feed back into the air intake. Plastic continued to fail. It's always interesting to hear "the problem is the installation" when dealing with a poorly engineered component. Finally, after 4 years of continued problems associated with the design, I called http directly (it also helped when I informed them I run a military failure analysis lab) and they sent me a new blower with a metal impeller which has continued to operate for 2 years without falling apart. However, now we have a sever vibration when the blower clears the boiler just prior to ignition, that is if it starts. We can not leave our home in the winter for any period longer than 24 hours, since we never know when or if the boiler will operate. And, yes, we have had all the service calls recommended (averaging 4 per year) by factor authorized repair companies and have spent about twice the cost of the unit on labor. I would have been money ahead to pitch the unit and replace it with something "more reliable"?
Date created: 2012-10-09
Name: Showerless JOE
Location: Amherst, MA
"Banging in Boiler"
Finally! - Some people who know these systems....I Bought an 80m in 2007, and have pretty good luck with it so far. I have a 2 zone system with dhw heating as well. Recently, the system has started banging shortly after the dhw cycle starts. My plumber said that the water is "flashing" in the boiler. The temperature shoots up very quickly and the burner modulates down and will eventlally shut off. Now, I'm not a hvac tech, but it seems that this would happen because the boiler is not getting enough water flow. Sure enough, I read on one post about how a bad pump could cause this. My question was I was wondering if anything else would cause it. Are there any tests that will narrow down the problem - thanks!!!
Date created: 2012-01-27
Name: Alan Z.
Location: Anchorage, AK
Years owned: 2
"I'm so lost!"
Purchased our condo 2.5 years ago. The first 1.5 years went great with our Munchkin t80m in place. This past winter we have been receiving f14 (fan runs at 130% for 60 seconds) codes all the time. It's weird, it would happen all the time when the temperature dropped below 5 degrees outside. Otherwise, it'll come and go below about 20 degrees. Our hot water tank and baseboard heating is fed off the machine. I called service on it a few days ago and he just went through the technical guide that I also have that came from the Munchkin website. 1. check the wires. He unplugged then plugged back in the wires to see if all connections were in tact. It was. He then said that I needed a new blower assembly motor because that is what the "guide" said. I asked him if he knew if that was the problem, he said "well, it looks fine but that is what the guide said to do next". Total loss of confidence i called them back the next day (yesterday) to speak with the manager. I conveyed to him that i hated throwing money at something that they didn't even know was broken. I was also quoted the blower motor costs without labor 800$. The Manager called the Munchkin rep in town to discuss with him my issue. The munchkin tech said that he believed that it was control board and not the motor. The manager told me that he will change out the control board for 400$ and that should fix the problem. If it doesn't then he'll take off 400$ of the cost of the blower motor since i already purchased the new control board. Today, new control board and the tech left. After 3 hours later, i got another code. (I also noticed that the temperature on the digital display panel moved a lot slower than before) It was F13 now! (fan runs too slow!!) New control board and now the blower motor doesn't run fast enough?! I wonder if it was even the motor to begin with. And also, when it ignites, it sounds weird. Don't know how to explain it but it just doesn't sound normal. If i know what that even sounds like. I'll call him again tomorrow, the labor work is under warranty. Any additional insight would be greatly appreciated and more than welcomed. Thank you!
Date created: 2012-01-26
Location: Milford, PA
Years owned: 2
"Works fine when OTS works"
I replaced the Outdoor Temperature Sensor (OTS) - again - today. When the OTS works, the system works fine for me. But this is now my third OTS - what's the deal?? I hate waking up to a cold house and checking the d5 to see that the boiler thinks the outdoor temperature is 138 degrees when it's really only about 32 degrees (last year d5 showed 147 degrees, in reality it was only about 15 degrees, had to replace the ots). If Homer is still around, could he please let me know, if I disconnect the outside ots unit entirely and just wrap the outdoor wires with electrical tape, will the unit still work? And if so, what else would I need to do to make this happen? I don't want to have to replace the ots again in the future and if I really don't need it in the first place, then I'd rather not deal with it the next time it malfunctions. Thank you.
Date created: 2012-01-20
Name: Shane kairalla
Location: Durango, co
Years owned: 5
"5 years of hassle"
I have had this unit for 5 years and have had a service guy out many times. 3 times this year. I had to replace the pressure switch recently and today it's doing the same thing (error po) not enough pressure to stay on. I believe now it was never the pressure switch. He has "flushed" I think 5 times now . This fixes the issue but only temporarily. I think at this point I will trash this thing and start over with something better. I'd rather have something less efficient and more durable. PS: originally I had glycol in the radiators and was told switching to water would help -- it did not.
Date created: 2012-01-18
Name: P. Cruse
Location: S E Wisconsin
Years owned: 7
"Fed Up in Wisconsin"
Has not worked properly in the 7 years we have had this unit. At least 3 times per year we are calling for service since we have no hot water. The unit starts to make a loud sound like a motorboat then quits. Several years ago I finally called the rep without notifying my installer and when he came out he told us that something was installed improperly and was causing our problems. Also that this mistake would cause a decrease in longevity of the unit. When our contractor came to fix it he said that was not true. We have since gotten rid of the installer but may just skip the floor heating and buy a regular hot water heater. What a waste of money for this piece of junk.
Date created: 2011-07-12
Name: G STEF
Years owned: 3
"WORST COMPANY TO EVER DEAL WITH!"
I had this installed and it is terrible. f9 codes all the time. That means no hot water because the pilot light wont light. Do not buy - they're crap.
Date created: 2009-03-18
Location: Voorhees, NJ
As a contractor we have installed over 50-Munchkin boilers. For the most part they are reliable and Heat Transfer Products have honored their warranty. The boiler is sensitive to installation. If you don't follow instructions well you should be installing cast iron. We have had a series of leaking heat exchangers. Currently we are installing #4, a 140M, in the same home. Our customer is loosing confidence in us because of this boiler. We have not seen a lot of the problems listed in various sites concerning the Munchkin. Without looking at the individual boilers I would suspect poor installations, not poor product design. I believe our problem with leaking heat exchangers is poor quality control in manufacturing. My $.02
Date created: 2009-03-07
Name: Rob Stahl
Location: Lansing, MI
Years owned: 4
I have had problems with my munchkin 80m every winter always faulting out for different problems since installed, the main board burnt out twice (maybe a power surge i'm not sure) but I decided to try to repair main board myself instead of paying another 600.00 and it worked, now I got blower problems,so I would like to have any non-working blowers if anyone has one to see if its poss. to repair instead or putting any( more) money into this don't buy boiler
Date created: 2009-01-19
Name: Jesse H.
Location: Liberty, Utah
Years owned: 3
Had a Munchkin 199m installed fall 2005 under new construction...have not made it a single season without multiple service calls...multiple f codes...same response as others, plumber indicates Utah only has one mfg rep. Rep won't stand good for warranty always someone else's fault...not suggest to anyone...
Date created: 2008-10-25
Name: H. Heart
Years owned: 6
The Munchkin 199m boiler has presented me with very costly repair expenses since the 3rd year of use. To date, my expenses have amounted to about 20% of the price of the unit 6 years ago (including installation). Many of the specialized internal components are very sensitive and are not made to withstand normal use. Most of the parts that have malfunctioned have been recently redesigned. With exception to the boiler fan (our was replaced under warranty) and the heat exchanger, the parts are not warranted for more than a year. This boiler is very hi-tech and it is very difficult to find knowledgeable or experienced professionals to work on the system. This is my 6th heating season with the unit and it is not working again. I will not be repairing it this time. I will be having a Dunkirk installed next week. I hope I have better luck.
Date created: 2008-08-05
Name: Curtis T.
Location: Orem, UT
Years owned: 2
"Cold showers; cold heart"
I purchased a home with the Munchkin T80M boiler / SuperStor water heater combo 2. 4 years ago. I had to replace the blower(under warrenty) within the first 2 months. It has now failed again, along with the water pressure switch; only after I had to replace a return water pump 2 months ago. After this fiasco, I will be into my "munchkin high efficiency heater" over $1200. I miss my old $180 "inefficient" 50 gallon water heater that kept my water warm and my wife happy
Other Munchkin R1 (Revision 1) Reviews
Most of the reviews around the web pertaining to the Munchkin R1 revolve around troubleshooting issues. Web forums such as heatinghelp.com and hvac-talk.com reflect a wide array of complications homeowners have had with this unit. Ignition failure, water discharge, blower motor replacement and failing components are among the issues posted.
In addition, contractors on hvac-talk.com note that Munchkin units have had problems in the past with specific components, such as inducers and swirl plates. In order to prevent unexpected repairs or component failure, these contractors advise consumers to ensure their units receive yearly maintenance.
Heat Transfer Products Munchkin R1 (Revision 1) Model Numbers
The Munchkin R1 (Revision 1) is available in different models which vary in efficiency and capacity.
|Model Number||AFUE||BTUs per Hour|
Munchkin R1 (Revision 1) Warranty
HTP provides a 3-year warranty for the R1 blower motor and a complete 1-year warranty for any defective parts. Within two to seven years after installation, HTP will replace or repair any part that is defective due to a leaking heat exchanger.
During the eighth through twelfth year of use, HTP will cover only a certain percentage of the cost to repair or replace the defective boiler. The percentage paid varies depending on the age of the unit.