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Heat Transfer Products Honeywell Boiler


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Overview of the Honeywell

The Munchkin Honeywell series gas boiler was manufactured by the company Heat Transfer Products (HTP) until 2002. Munchkin boilers occupy a small amount of wall or floor space, and are billed by HTP as "the original high efficiency low mass boiler produced in the United States." Munchkin Honeywell series boilers were commercial boilers and carried the following model numbers: T50M, T80M, 80M, 140M, 199M and 399M.

The 399M model Munchkin boiler boasts a 93-percent AFUE rating. The unit is constructed of stainless steel, and is reportedly so lightweight it can be installed by one professional. The Munchkin boiler digitally monitors its own operation for efficiency purposes. Honeywell is an original equipment manufacturer for Munchkin boilers, producing such parts as gas valves and heating controls.

Consumer Reviews of the Heat Transfer Products Honeywell

Compare to Other Heat Transfer Products Boilers:
Popularity:
#2  of 2 Heat Transfer Products Boilers
2 of 5 stars 25 reviews

  • Very Satisfied
    1
  • Somewhat Satisfied
    1
  • Neutral
    7
  • Somewhat Unsatisfied
    2
  • Very Unsatisfied
    14


Date created: 2012-05-20 Name: Jerry A. Rice
Location: New Paltz, NY
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Buyer Beware"
I have radiant heat serviced by a Munchkin gas boiler. I have had it maintained faithfully, but last week, during a routine maintenance visit, the service person found a hole in the boiler. I had to have this fairly new unit replaced. The company did provide a new unit, as specified in the warranty, but I was left with a $2000 labor cost for reinstalling the unit. I contacted the company and they hid behind their legal warning that all labor costs must be born by the customer. I am not satisfied with the policy, and I am no longer happy with the craftsmanship of the Munchkin machine or the HTProducts service. I am here to say, "Buyer Beware!" I am.


Date created: 2012-05-10 Name: Sam H.
Location: Carbon, Alberta
Years owned: 6

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Down But Not Out"
My Munchkin t80m has worked error free for 6 years. In Dec it start to show signs of problems. It started to occasionly pump warm water(not hot) and then clear up. It has had 3 f09's since then and cleared up on it's own. Monday May 6 it f09'd and shut down and won't heat water. I use the boiler for hat water and to heat the basement floor. I have a hi eff forced air furnace because we have winter's of -20 or more on a regular basis. I have read all the posts here and hope I have better luck with my repairs and maintenance. My situation is this. When I took possesion of my house the contractor told me not to touch the system and if it needed work to call the plumber. What a ditz. I did what he said and never did any maintenance or cleaning.(after reading here I think Im the ditz) So after 6 years here is what I have found so far. I inspected the install and have a few concerns. The boiler unit is wall mounted 5 ft off the floor. It does not look like it is tilted at all. I will put some blocking between the wall and the unit to get the tilt. How far out should I block it. 1in? 2In? I found the vacume relief valve was brittle and broken and leaking on the wall and floor. The stain is rust colored. I removed it and there was some condensate water but no alot. I took the cover off and the control display board is mounted inside the unit?? How can a person see an error code if it's in there. I want to mount outside the unit. There is a bit of white crystaline around the exhaust hose. The outside vents are mounted 12 to 16 indh's apart and level with each other. I removed the 2 probes and cleaned them up. Tried the reset a couple times and watched in the window and did not see anything. There was a white/grey coating on them. I am going to do a complete maintenance service today. I will change the probes and gaskets like is stated in these posts. I will clean up all the parts and hope I am still lucky and don't have much more damage. Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. It would seem that the problem with this Munchkin unit is just a lazy/uninformed maintenace guy(me) and maybe some install problems. Now to find the parts. The reason I gave a neutral rating is because I haven't done the work or found the parts yet, but 5 years without problems, go figure, I must have one of the good ones.


Date created: 2012-04-30 Name: Nick K
Location: Orleans, MA
Years owned: 6

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Overpriced and Unreliable"
We have had our htp Munchkin 80m for just over 6 years now. It was very expensive to begin with, and I really was hopeful that the unit would provide many years of trouble free service with high efficiency. The unit is certainly efficient and has reduced our home heating bills considerably. However, the reliability has been awe full and this unit has turned into a very expensive lesson! To make matters worse, Heat transfer Products customer device is lousy and they certainly don't care about customer complaints. We have made several requests directly to htp for assistance, and we just keep getting passed to their distributor. Although the warranty covered us for the first few years, it is now out of warranty and having several service calls per year is getting expensive. To date we have had to replace the gas valve, air intake rubber sleeve, the control board and wiring harness. Still, we have f18 errors all the time and have to manually reset the unit 2 to 3x per week. If I had the money... I'd toss this thing out in a heartbeat and replace it with a simple low efficiency boiler. We are now spending close to $1000 year since the warranty lapsed on service/parts for this thing; which more than negates the savings we have achieved for it's high efficiency. To make matters worse, we also purchased a htp SuperStore indirect water heater. This has been replaced once (under warranty but we were on the hook for labor) as the unit developed a leak. Again, HTP's customer service was deplorable. I am very concentious and try to buy American made products whenever possible. With htp being based in ma, and employing local people to make these products - I find it a very sad state of affairs that htp doesn't seem to have any interest in how their products performs once they are out the factory door! *** Bottom line - stay away from htp and their products. I have learned my lesson the hard way. ***


Date created: 2012-03-05 Name: Homer
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"GOOD JOB!"
M. Lottermoser--Calgary, Alberta---Good job--You're obviously talented. First: Don't change the post purge on your boiler. When the post purge occurs the boiler loop pump is not running so you are not circulating cold water into the heating system. The hx contains about 1 gallon of water, which is insignificant. It is more important to clear the combustion chamber of acidic moisture and gases. Second: It is always good to wear a dusk mask when handling the ceramic refractories. The washer and nut will compress the ceramic which is not a concern. Just tighten it enough to make sure that the nut is securely threaded on the post. Third: You need to replace the burner gasket and make sure that the burner tube is tightly secured by the four screws. Clean the mating surfaces to remove the old gasket material. Fourth: You do not need to replace the probes if they are in good shape, just clean them well. In earlier post I have said how I do it. When cleaning the hx I always remove the target refractory so as not to damage it. Do not use a brass brush to clean the hx, stainless steel or nylon only. Read these post on cleaning the hx. Fifth: Parts should be available well into the future as many of the parts that you may need are used on the newer models. Try KSCDirect.com for online parts. They are reasonably priced. If I were to stock parts, they would be--the burner gasket-refractories-water pressure switch--one water temperature sensor (in or out). The failure of the blower, gas valve depends on venting (gas reversion), see earlier posts, especially concentric venting. Lastly, if you live in an area with lighting, get a whole house surge protector and be sure and protect the boiler electronics with a computer grade (4200 joules) surge protector.


Date created: 2012-02-28 Name: M. Lottermoser
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"199M - First failure in 7 years"
199M with ssu-60 indirect water heater, two Heat Controller fan coils, glycol system 30%, concentric venting 8 feet above ground on 2 story wall. From reading all the previous posts, I seem to be extremely fortunate on two fronts. Proper installation and venting. No annual maintenance since it was installed 7 years ago (to my shame). The control card just failed, where the relays clicked on and off continuously in one second intervals. Replaced it with a 926 card but noticed the post purge of over a minute seems to cool the boiler output water by 10 F. from when the burner shuts off. Can the post purge be shortened ??? so as not to waste too much heat. The local distributor doesn't keep spare parts so it was going to take over 5 days to get the control card. Fortunately, the winter has been mild here and I was able to get one online from the US within 3 days. During those three days I cleaned the hx and unplugged the condensate drain. Fortunately the boiler was slightly tilted to the back to the drain so only the bottom third of the rear ceramic target wall was water damaged, dropped from the threaded stud but leaning against the rear boiler wall. The washer and nut was buried in the ceramic material. I replaced the rear ceramic target wall but am worried washer and nut will loosen off again. With annual maintenance, this may not be an issue. The drain was plugged solid with coffee ground type material a couple inches above the trap. It would slowly drip but was able to squeeze and tilt the trap downward where after 15 minutes of working it, the rinse water in the hx finally pushed the material out. Rinsed the hx with fresh water from a small pressure hose and was able to flush out all the solids. (7 years worth). It took a few sessions with CLR and nylon brush to clean the hx. But after two days it looks good as new. I cleaned the dust off the burner, cleaned the flame sense probe and ignitor probe. Noticed the burner gasket was slightly loose and will replace it shortly. Should I replace the probes as well, for peace of mind??? The outside sensor failed 5 years ago and was replaced. So in summary, I am very satisfied that the boiler worked fine without any annual maintenance for 7 years but I am very dissatisfied with lack of spare parts in a timely manner. Therefore, the neutral rating. Since the boiler has been manufacture discontinued in 2011, how long will spare parts be available?? Are any components being used in new boilers?? Any further suggestions on what spare parts I should buy and replace based on the 7 year track record?? What is the failure rate of burners, gas valves and blower motors after 7 years? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all the previous posts. I will keep this boiler and properly maintain it. I would never have guessed that the installation and maintenance of these condensing boilers would be so critical. But that's progress, where the consumers have more due diligence to shoulder. Hopefully, that doesn't sound too bitter.


Date created: 2012-01-30 Name: gary strandberg
Location: darby,mt
Years owned: 8

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"blower motor"
To alan: Anchorage, ak f13,f14 definitely blower motor on your t-80m. I have same unit,disgusting boilers, on my 4th blower motor in 8 years, this blower has a 3 year warranty on original blower only. Hope this helps. Gary


Date created: 2012-01-30 Name: Sheila
Location: Milford, PA
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:

4 of 5 stars Somewhat Satisfied

Review:
"Another question"
It appears the water condensation line (for the 140m) is clogged - how do I clear it? I don't want to do anything to screw it up or make it worse. Thank you.


Date created: 2012-01-28 Name: BCS
Location: St. Paul, MN
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

2 of 5 stars Somewhat Unsatisfied

Review:
"Water dripping from Flame Probe port"
About three weeks ago, my Munchkin started making an explosion sound just about every time it tried to start. Then f9 would appear. I'd hit reset. Then usually another explosion, maybe a start, but eventually f9 again. I noticed water on the floor in front of the Munchkin. I took the case off and saw water dripping from the Flame Rectifier Probe port. I did a condensate flush, and the water stopped flowing from the Probe port, but still I got the F9s and explosions. I called Service, who called the Munchkin help line or rep and was on hold for a long time. Two days, $680 (labor), and a new spark plug later, the Munchkin was up and running again. The help line's theory was the spark was hitting the gas in the wrong place (too far back?) causing the explosions, and a new spark plug was the answer. For a week or so, no problems. Starting four days ago, the Munchkin starting shutting down and giving off F10s, about two a day. If I hit reset, the M restarted. Following the manual, I have cleaned the Flame Rectifier Probe at least four times (each time the Probe has a rust film on it). Thinking the Probe must be bad, I've ordered a new Rectified Probe but it is not here yet. Today, after two F10s, resets, and restarts, we heard an explosion. I went to the Munchkin to find it leaking water on the floor around the Munchkin. As before, it was coming from the Probe port. I have shut the M down and taken the Probe out and felt inside the port. It is wet in there. I'll do another condensate flush, put the Probe back in, and see what happens. Does anyone (calling Homer!) have a clue why water is building up in the Rectified Probe area? Does it mean there is a crack in the M case? Help, please.


Date created: 2012-01-13 Name: Shannon
Location: Levering, Michigan
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

2 of 5 stars Somewhat Unsatisfied

Review:
"F09 - ANY SOLUTIONS?"
We installed this Munchkin in our new foam-block home 7 years ago. When it is installed properly and running properly, you can save substantial amounts of money on heating costs, as well as enjoy a comfortable even heat. However, in the past year, we have put a substantial amount of money into the Munchkin itself, replacing parts in hopes to discover exactly why it keeps malfunctioning. Currently, tonight, I sit in my 65 degree home, which has been without heat for approx. 18 hours and it is currently 20 degrees outside, so by morning - well, it won't be so cozy. My hvac professional (licensed owner) is completely stumped by a f09 code. We push the reset button, the flame ignites and the unit runs for approximately 15 minutes to a temp of 117-120. The flame then goes out and the unit tries to reignite, but of course after 3 attempts, f09 - errors out. If you try to reset it again immediately, it won't ignite. But if you wait a few minutes, it will ignite on the first try and repeat the same cycle. It has been 3 months since a thorough cleaning and a new flame sensor being installed. Today, we emptied the condensate drain and cleaned the flame sensor, but to no avail, I sit with my children on the coldest night of the winter without heat. This is the fourth time we have had to work through a trial and error method to fix our Munchkin within the year. However, in a 4200 square ft. home, we haven't filled our 1000 gallon propane tank since May 2011. We are rapidly loosing faith in the Munchkin brand, especially since tonight this is the only place I have been able to feel hope that someone would respond to this review with some insight to solving our problem with a long term solution. There is no website that offers any support, nor an 800 number for Customer Service that exists that I have found for these Munchkin boilers. And, at least where we reside, only a couple know and/ or understand the complete concept and mechanics of the boiler system. Since we made the investment and appreciate the ability this unit has to heat our home, we are open to any suggestions for a resolution to this problem. Unfortunately, if a solution is not found, a Munchkin is not what we will purchase ever again. Any guidance from those of you that are firm Munchkin believers would be greatly appreciated.


Date created: 2011-12-25 Name: Homer
Location: Nevada
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Merry Christmas--This year in review !!!"
I hope that all you Munchkin owners are warm and cozy this Christmas season; I know I am, of course my Munchkin was installed by a trained professional--me. Sorry, I really am here to help, dear readers. Rather than ranting about the product, seeking a solution for your problem might be a better course of action, don't you think? There are plenty of tips in these posts, so read them. ---wayne hoefler, Cripple Creek,CO-- There is no adjustment for High Altitude except a combustion analysis with a recently calibrated meter. --hl bent and steve of BeltLine Heating-- Kudos to you. --mark, Derry,NH--I can hardly believe that the Munchkin is responsible for your pumps failing(I'd like to hear about that, I'm always willing to learn). $2000 for a repair and circulators seems way over the top. PS-Use Grundfos pumps which can be taken apart and cleaned rather than Taco pumps --important--b nordt, Virginia--Your gas valve is incorrectly set and allowing too much gas into the combustion chamber. Do a combustion analysis and check your gas supply pressure. I've seen this happen for those reasons. --vicki allison, Cape May, nj--whoa babe, Two control boards??? And your techie says that there aren't and faults on the display, so you need a new board for $1000 smackers. You have just encountered the dreaded parts changer (see earlier posts). Did he hook up his laptop computer to the control board and look at the fault history? Duh! F03 is a fault with the return (water coming back to the boiler) sensor (thermistor, a temperature variable resistor). You would disconnect the wires and measure the resistance on the sensor and check the temperature gauge and look at the chart in the installation manual and see if your resistance measurements, relatively, corresponds to the temperature on the gauge. If so look some where else for the problem. like the harness! Read my earlier post on f05 problems and tinning the Molex connectors. I sure the first technician was working for his ged. PS-There were some problems with the molex connectors.-- c m, Vancouver, Canada--I like Triangle Tube boilers. They're a different design. Munchkins are a low mass, high head boiler and Triangle Tube is a medium mass, low head boiler. Mass is the amount of water in the hx and head is the pressure needed to push water through the hx at a given gallons per minute. All boilers need maintenance and cleaning. Reminds me of the story of a world traveler in the 1800 talking to a Texan and describing a giraffe. After a bit, the Texan look at him and said, "There ain't no such animal". A self cleaning hx? There ain't no such animal. Ever hear of a self cleaning spark plug for you car? Didn't think so. As for your boilers, you have installation problems, me thinketh. --margie b, Dayton, Ky--The failure in the easier blowers was that the plastic impellers came apart. The new replacements have metal impellers. Don't let a boiler guy replace the blower with an plastic version. Take the old one apart and check the impeller for damage, if none check the control board and wiring harness. I don't think that your model has a negative pressure switch proving the blower is blowing. Also, have your boiler guy increase the blower post purge to 100 sec from 25 sec. You need a laptop computer, control board to computer harness, and htp program to do this. This important for short exhaust vent lengths.--KIM, Greenfield Center NY--I've covered f09 error code and their causes in previous posts. foo error code is a thermostat polarity connection problem with two causes: polarity of the two gray tt wires connected to the control board or a grounding of the gray tt wires or the grounding of the thermostat wires connected between the thermostat and gray tt wire. The polarity problem: disconnect the two gray tt wires from the thermostat wires and twist the two gray tt wires together and reset the boiler and that should fix that. Check to make sure none of the wires are grounded to anything metal. If you are using a current robbing thermostat replace it. I like White/Rogers(Emerson) thermostats 1f89-344 or similar types. --G. brown, Edmond, Oklahoma--You have an installation problem. Betcha, Betcha, Betcha Happy New Years to all you dear readers and may your house be blessed with warmth and happiness. If not your house, then, surely, your heart. That's pretty much a wrap for 2011.


Date created: 2011-12-08 Name: HL Bent
Location: MD

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Reality"
I was trained and taught to service Munchkin. I have a mastergasfitters license, master plumbers and master hvac. I even have a conversion burner gas license. I have found in over thirty years of service the simplest systems work best because simple people are more plentiful than complicated people and complicated stuff. Could it be that the majority of people refuse to invest in $1,500.00 analyzers and thousands of dollars of special instruments to actually do their jobs? Could it be they stop investing in education to stay current? I love the kiss method, but I have also found technology gives us more options. The trick is to embrace it and use it properly and hire people who know what to do. All products from the simple to the complex have problems. All maufacturers have had lemons in design and in units. But the first step is in the installer. Not all products can be applied everywhere. Choose wisely. Two, most installers barely have a high school education and it each day goes by they get more stupid as they do not train and educate. The consumer often gets the raw deal, because these people blame anybody, anything but themselves for the problems they face. When we blame the wrong thing we fail to work on the real problem. I can make a bad product look good or a good product look bad. What I can't do is get people to make better choices on who they hire because they are often too lazy to shop properly. You can't hire talent on low price and no background checking. If all you want is someone to light a wood log, you might just succeed with anybody, but in the area of combustion and today's technology that has been forced upon us with government standards and high cost of fuel and poor building designs, you have to hire experts. Without fail, every job I have gone on with a problem, had 3 issues. the part that failed, the thing that caused it to fail and lack of maintenance. I am not a fan of munchkin because it is complex and requires special training and tools, but don't most automobiles fit that same category? And I buy both. Heck, my whole industry now requires the equivalent of a college graduate to qualify for the work we have to do. If I have a choice I look for simple product that best fits my need and apply it properly. This alone eliminates 90% of service problems. Installation is the 100% most important part after the sale. It is here a 1/4" off level or a wire not tight, or some lack of knowledge, integrity and persistence to make it right ruins the project. And then even if it is perfect, we begin to use it and wear it out. Maintenance proper and complete at the full price required gives the consumer the best chance of having a good experience. If you can't afford the maintenance, you can't afford to own it. And yes even the best and simplest can be complicated by improper use of a thing. So I believe it when some people call this product junk and some call it great. I usually find the "junk" is a result of an incorrect choice, improperly applied, installed, used or serviced. It are these facts I have based and built my business on and why I call the plumbing heating and cooling fields recession proof. Good luck to all. Thanks to all who provide positive helpful comments. We all need to hear them all good and bad.


Date created: 2011-12-07 Name: Mark
Location: Derry, NH
Years owned: 5

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Cross Your Fingers If You Bought One"
I just got a $2000 repair bill for 2 circulators and a mother board. I have a oil burner in my other house for 20 years and the circulators are still running. Oh My God


Date created: 2011-11-21 Name: B Nordt
Location: virginia
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"my munchkin blows up!"
Disastrous... Every so often my munchkin boiler emits a kaboom that will rattle a 3 story house and almost flip you out of your bed. Had all kinds of repairs and the problem persists. This is a dangerous product.


Date created: 2011-11-20 Name: vicki allison
Location: Cape May NJ
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Second new mother board in 3 years"
On my Munchkin, I get f003 codes ... two service technicians from two different companies came out last night at weekend rates. The second one was the outfit that installed this boiler 7 years ago. The technician tells me there's no message on the led display so he needs to order a "mother board" ... this would be the second one (I replaced it in 2008 already). The first one cost $1,000 and took a week to get. The first technician reported an f003 error code .. thermistor problem ... but he wasn't too savvy on this boiler so couldn't fix it. I had to find renters a hotel to stay in. This is a nightmare. I can't have an unreliable boiler with winter weekend renters. Any ideas?


Date created: 2011-11-15 Name: C M
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Years owned: 8

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"What a disaster"
We have now had two of these pieces of junk and they have been a complete disaster. Both have had multiple problems but one common issue is the build up of combustion products (largely carbon) that accumulates and blocks the condensate drain leading to corrosion of the heat exchanger. The cost in servicing and replacement has been many times the money saved from lower gas bills compared to running the original 80 year old boiler. One thing I have learned from this experience is that the boiler must have a vertical self cleaning heat exchanger like those used in the Triangle Tube Prestige product.


Date created: 2011-11-08 Name: Margie B
Location: Dayton, Ky.
Years owned: 5

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"very disappointed"
I am very dissatisfied with this MUNCHKIN-80M so called high efficiency boiler. I also purchased it to replace an old one that I wish I would have kept; thinking that this one would save me money in the long run. Well, every year it is something & the last 2 years it's the blower motor, which is not inexpensive to replace on a yearly basis. Not sure if I'm going to have it replaced but I an looking into other options. I know one thing, I would never buy another one!!


Date created: 2011-09-10 Name: G. Brown
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Homeowner"
Terrible product that is totally unreliable. Do not buy this piece of junk. It will only cost you money. Mine has been repaired so many times and has displayed so many fault codes that I cannot keep up with them all.


Date created: 2011-08-31 Name: Brian McDougall
Location: BC

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"Coffee grounds"
I service these units and replaced some under warranty but never sold one. The problems with these units is lack of service and that may mean two service call a year. The biggest issue is cleaning the hx and trap - the coffee grounds that you find in the chamber is the ore coming out of the ss HX(use a magnet to pick it up and see)and this will clog the trap (one of the reasons). These will work well if you get a service person that knows them and is competent. Installation is crucial. I would recommend a electrical tank for back up and try to find a really good technician that can work on them as with pretty much any condensing boiler.


Date created: 2011-08-14 Name: Henry Peterson
Location: cromwell mn
Years owned: 5

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Have had our munchkin for 5 years installed"
Have had our munchkin for 5 years installed by a friend of mine top notch guy 3 rebuilds and 2 new units in the first 3 years than I got one year with no problems (installed a outside boiler so it was only heating my hot water for 5 months a year)now 2 service call in 3 months can't afford a new boiler but can't afford to keep repairing this one. Manufacturer blames install over and over again but now after replacing with different unit it works for a time then problems again and they stopped building them but not standing behind the units.


Date created: 2011-04-22 Name: Rick
Location: Rockland Co NY
Years owned: 2

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Installed 2 Years Ago - No Problems"
Have had the boiler in operation a little over 2 years with an indirect hot water heater. Have had no problems with the boiler but a 2 leaks in the piping the day after the install that they had to fix and I made the installer replace a copper pipe used to drain the condensate to plastic. They told me at the 3 year service they will clean the inside of the unit and at 5 years change a gasket. I have a 5 year parts and labor warranty that was part of a home show special. The installer told me before he installed mine they had put in 20 units. The 1st service checks (I get 4 for free) were just looking over the unit and checking the codensate drain.


Date created: 2011-04-15 Name: K. Jaeckel
Location: Manitowoc,Wi
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"K Jaeckel"
This Thing is a pc of CRAP. First one replaced just under the warranty wire due to failed hx. But not after replacing the hi priced inducer assembly 500.00 wholesale thank you very much.due to poorly designed sagging mtr mounts that were not replaceable. The inducer lasted 18 months on the new one. I wouldn't install another one of these if it were free. My back ground? Journeyman HVAC, NATE..... in fiels for 25years now doung tech support. Bla Bla Bla this is a very poor product with poor distribution period


Date created: 2011-04-01 Name: D Krueger
Location: Richland Center, WI
Years owned: 4

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"problems"
Had a Munchkin installed 4 years age in new construction in floor heat and hot water. Unit has failed 3 time most current costing $640.00 and this was with a break from plumbing contractor. Several parts were replaced,burner caskets, ignitor, gas valve. Munchkin rep came to house and determined that vent was to far away (it was within munchkin spec)reset some setting for venting and said it should work now.Said there should be yearly maintenance approx. cost $150 a year. I'am not happy with the munchkin and sorry I connected hot water system to it. I would not buy another Munchkin boiler


Date created: 2011-03-27 Name: John Blake
Location: Mpls/St. Paul
Years owned: 1

Satisfaction Rating:

5 of 5 stars Very Satisfied

Review:
"Munchkin now Contender re-engineered and fixed"
Installed a Contender(used to be Munchkin) on Friday with my contractor. Heat on same day. Zero problems. Water quality can effect any HE boiler. Unqualified installations will negatively effect any boiler/furnace install. My contractors love the service/cost/quality balance they get from me. I have a direct dial to the HTP rep. for any questions/concerns. We have had zero problems with the Contender. Every install has many variables which create a custom situation and demand for custom installation. For instance a furnace needs 37 things to go right for it to work. Not that it created your issues , but find a quality installer to start with.


Date created: 2010-02-04 Name: K. Nicklas
Years owned: 5

Satisfaction Rating:

3 of 5 stars Neutral

Review:
"F0-9 fault code"
Had a Munchkin 140-m installed 5 years ago. Up until this year, no problems. Heating bills (gas consumption) is much lower, (took out a valiant approx. 30 yrs old). This year, my wife said she hears the baseboard pipe's banging when the furnace comes on, thinking air was needed to be bled off. After closer review, I found the noise she heard is the ignition of gas (explosion) after the furnace failed the light and went through it's 3 purge and try to ignite cycles and then would ignite the gas build up. Then, the furnace would dump into it's f09 fault code. So like everyone else out comes the manual, the list, condensate drain - ok, vents - ok, gas pressure - ok, Burner - clean, blower - cycles fine (both speeds), ignitor - sparks. Had the heating contractor that helped install it over and could not find anything wrong. So I ditched him and I ran resistance test on wires, and still got the f09 shut down code. I checked the gaskets on the burner tube, on the burner tube door (front housing)thinking maybe the 1 to 1 gas/air mix was off, checked the swirl plate, checked to make sure the spark electrode was not shorting out on the ceramic refractory, all was good. Then I thought the spark was load when arcing, a pulsing sound which means a break in the spark current so I replaced the spark electrode and tested it and got a much quieter, steady, almost non-breaking spark. Put the new spark electrode in and the furnace fired right up. So if your spark is a load heavy arc chances maybe it's not steady enough to light the gas. Hope all my trouble shooting may help some of you f0-9 people out there. Good luck, Kevin P.S. A new spark electrode is around $60.00 and a 2 min. fix.


Date created: 2009-03-03 Name: David Holmes
Location: New Hampshire
Years owned: 7

Satisfaction Rating:

1 of 5 stars Very Unsatisfied

Review:
"Air Pressure Switch Fault Stuck Closed"
I purchased a lake house with an Munchkin 80 mlp. Was told what "a great unit it is", and since then (July-March) I have put about $1000 in repairs. Blower motor, ignitor. I found paperwork from previous owner who also replaced blower moter (this is # 3 in 7 years). Now I have had it stop working 2x with an Error code 08 (Air Pressure Switch..) Any recommendations? Any advice? Is it just the switch? For a little more $$ I could replace the entire system. Any advice or help appreciated.


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Other Honeywell Reviews

A thread on heatinghelp.com details a discussion between HVAC professionals regarding Munchkin boilers. One installer comments that for the price and performance, he doesn't understand why anyone would use any other boiler.

A homeowner writes to the experts on hvac-talk.com to ask about a loud noise that his Munchkin boiler makes when turned on; the unit was previously quiet in operation. After a technicianís house call, the owner reports that the burner gasket needed replacement, and the unit was again operating quietly. One expert commented that this was a common issue with "those boilers."

A Munchkin owner asks the forum at doityourself.com for help in locating a qualified installer in rural Illinois. The expert installers suggest calling the company, or looking for someone qualified to install the Peerless Pinnacle, which they say is a similar boiler.

Heat Transfer Products Honeywell Model Numbers

The Honeywell is available in different models which vary in efficiency and capacity.

Model Number AFUE BTUs per Hour
140M 92 140000
199M 92 199000
80M 92 80000

Honeywell Warranty

Munchkin offers a 12-year warranty on the Honeywell series boilers. After the seventh year, the purchaser must pay a percentage of the replacement cost. Labor costs are not covered by the Munchkin warranty. The owner must contact the retailer and provide the original receipt for warranty issues.

 
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